The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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String Beans

String the beans, break them into inch lengths, pour over them boiling water and boil fifteen minutes. Have the jars ready filled with hot water thoroughly to heat them. Turn out the water and quickly fill the jars with the beans, adding as little as possible of the water in which they were boiled. Fill the cans until they are overflowing. Fasten on the tops and set away.

BEANS-Boil young string beans until quite tender. Then put them into cans, fasten down the tops and boil two hours. PEAS-Can in the same manner as beans. (See recipe above.)

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is open-kettle and boiling-water canning of a low-acid vegetable, the single most dangerous procedure in the old preserving chapters. It cannot be made safe by adjusting the times given here.

A Little History

The Butterick Cook Book belongs to the period just before home canning was put on a scientific footing. The "open-kettle" method described here — hot food into hot jars, seal, walk away — was widely recommended in nineteenth-century household cookery books, carried over from an era when preserving meant fruit, pickles and jam, all of them protected by acid or sugar. Applying the same routine to string beans and peas looked like a natural extension and was in fact a leap into a category the technique could not handle. Domestic-science bulletins and extension services began pressing home cooks toward long "intermittent" boiling and then, from around the late 1910s onward, toward the pressure canner, as the bacteriology of low-acid spoilage was worked out; USDA guidance eventually made pressure processing the only accepted method for vegetables. Pages like this one are a useful reminder that a printed recipe carries the assumptions of its decade, and that some of those assumptions were later shown to be lethal.

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