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Sweet Omelet
Add a little sugar to the eggs, using no pepper and but one-half the quantity of salt. Make a plain omelet, and when ready to fold, put two or three tablespoons of any kind of preserves, marmalade or jelly upon the top. After the omelet is laid on the serving-dish, sprinkle sugar over it.
This is a variation entry: it assumes you already have the book's plain omelet in hand and only tells you what to change. A standard French-style omelet of three or four eggs is what it has in mind.
- The base omeletThe book's plain omelet is a folded pan omelet, not a puffed soufflé omelet, since the instruction is to add the filling "when ready to fold." The quantities of egg, liquid and butter are whatever the book's plain omelet specifies; this entry changes only the sugar and salt.
- How much sugar"A little" is probably on the order of a teaspoon for a small omelet. Keep it modest: sweetened egg colours and sticks at the pan surface sooner than plain egg does.
- Half the saltA scant pinch. Salt is still wanted — it seasons the egg and keeps the thing from tasting flatly sweet — but at half the savoury amount it stays in the background.
- Warm the fillingCold jam or marmalade straight from the jar chills the centre and makes the omelet hard to fold cleanly. Set the two or three tablespoons in a small pan or a warm cup first, and loosen stiff preserves with a few drops of water.
- Pan heatMedium, not the fierce heat used for a savoury omelet. Sweetened egg colours fast, and a sweet omelet is meant to be pale gold with a barely set, creamy interior.
- The finishing sugarSprinkled over the folded omelet on the dish; the recipe does not say which sugar. A red-hot skewer or poker laid across sugar to score and caramelise it is a known period trick, though this recipe does not call for it; a kitchen torch does the same work if you want the glaze.
- Yield and timingCooking takes only a few minutes at the stove, and it should go to the table at once: the warm preserve loosens and runs if the omelet is left standing.
Sweet omelets belong to the long tradition of the egg dish as a light supper or a dessert course rather than a breakfast, a habit English and American cookbooks are often said to have inherited from French practice. Preserves, marmalade and jelly were exactly what a well-run household of the period had in quantity from its own summer putting-up, which made a filling like this a matter of reaching for the pantry shelf rather than shopping.