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Fudges: Vanilla
Vanilla Fudge 2 2/3 cups confectioners' sugar 2/3 cup milk 4 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon vanilla Melt butter in saucepan, add sugar and milk, stir until dissolved, bring to boiling point, and let boil to 238 degrees F., or until a soft ball is formed when candy is tried in cold water. Remove from fire, let stand until cool, then add vanilla, and beat until creamy. Turn into a buttered pan, and cut in squares.
Nut Fudge To Vanilla Fudge add one cup chopped English walnut meats just before beating the mixture.
Vanilla Opera Fudge 2 cups sugar 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon vanilla Put sugar and cream in saucepan, stir until it boils, add cream of tartar, and boil, stirring carefully to prevent burning, to 238 degrees F., or until candy forms a soft ball when tried in cold water. Move thermometer often, that candy may not burn underneath. Pour on marble slab, agate tray, or large platter which has been slightly moistened with a damp cloth, and leave until cold. With broad spatula or butter paddle work the candy back and forth until it becomes creamy. It may take some time, but it will surely change at last if it was boiled to the right temperature. Cover with a damp cloth for half an hour, then add vanilla, working it in well with the hands. Press into a small shallow box lined with wax paper, let stand to harden, then cut in squares. Other flavors may be used instead of vanilla, and the candy be tinted with color paste to correspond. Sometimes the fudge is divided into several portions, each flavored and colored differently, and pressed into a box in thin layers, then cut in squares when hard. Or each portion may be packed separately to give more variety when arranged on a bonbon dish. Assorted Opera Fudges Variations of Opera Fudge may be secured by omitting vanilla and adding one of the following:
Chopped almonds with almond extract. Chopped candied pineapple with pineapple extract. Candied plums cut in pieces with lemon extract. Chopped candied ginger. Chopped walnuts or pecans with melted chocolate. Other variations are in the following recipes.
Rainbow Bar Prepare recipe for Vanilla Opera Fudge, omitting vanilla, and divide into five portions. Flavor one portion with violet, color with violet color paste, and press into a box lined with wax paper, making a thin layer. On top of the violet, make a thin layer of fudge colored green and flavored with orange flower water. Place on the green a thin layer colored yellow and flavored with lemon; on the yellow a thin layer colored orange and flavored with orange; and on the orange the last portion colored red and flavored with raspberry. When firm, cut in narrow bars.
Maraschino Opera Fudge 2 cups sugar 1 cup heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 tablespoon maraschino cordial 1/6 cup candied cherries 1/6 cup citron Put sugar and cream in saucepan, stir until it boils, add cream of tartar and boil, stirring carefully to prevent burning, to 238 degrees F., or until it forms a soft ball when tried in cold water. Move thermometer often, that candy may not burn underneath. Pour on a marble slab, agate tray, or large platter which has been slightly moistened with a damp cloth, and leave until cold. With broad spatula or butter paddle work the candy back and forth until it begins to get sugary, add cherries and citron cut in small pieces, and maraschino or other flavor. Continue working until it forms a hard ball, cover with a damp cloth, and leave it for thirty or forth minutes. Work it with the hands until smooth, and press into a shallow box lined with waxed paper. Let stand to harden, then cut in squares. If the candy is to be sent away, it may be covered with waxed paper and the box cover, without cutting it up. Orange Flower Opera Fudge 2 cups sugar 1 cup heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 4 teaspoons orange flower water Green color paste 12 marshmallows Put sugar and cream in saucepan, stir until it boils, add cream of tartar, and boil, stirring carefully to prevent burning, to 238 degrees F., or until it forms a soft ball when tried in cold water. Move thermometer often, that candy may not burn underneath. Pour on a marble slab, agate tray, or large platter which has been slightly moistened with a damp cloth, and leave until cold. With broad spatula or butter paddle work the candy back and forth until it becomes creamy. Cover with a damp cloth for half an hour, then add orange flower water and color paste to make a delicate shade of green. Work with the hands until soft, carefully adding the marshmallows cut in pieces. When evenly mixed, press into a box lined with waxed paper, let stand until firm, and cut in squares.
Pistachio Opera Fudge 2 cups sugar 1 cup heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/3 teaspoon almond extract 1/4 cup pistachio nuts Put sugar and cream in saucepan, stir until it boils, add cream of tartar, and boil, stirring carefully to prevent burning, to 238 degrees F., or until it forms a soft ball when tried in cold water. Move thermometer often, that candy may not burn underneath. Pour on a marble slab, agate tray, or large platter which has been slightly moistened with a damp cloth, and leave until cold. With broad spatula or butter paddle work the candy back and forth until it becomes creamy. It may take some time, but it will surely change at last if it was boiled to the right temperature. Cover with a damp cloth for half an hour, add extracts, working them in well with the hands. Put in the pistachio nuts, blanched and cut in pieces, press into a small shallow box lined with waxed paper, let stand to harden, then cut in squares.
Raspberry Opera Fudge 2 cups sugar 1 cup heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 teaspoon raspberry extract Scarlet color paste 1/2 cup blanched almonds Put sugar and cream in a saucepan, stir until it boils, add cream of tartar, and boil, stirring carefully to prevent burning, to 238 degrees F., or until it forms a soft ball in cold water. Move thermometer often, that candy may not burn underneath. Pour on a marble slab, agate tray, or large platter which has been slightly moistened with a damp cloth, and leave until cold. With broad spatula or butter paddle work the candy back and forth until it becomes firm. Cover with a damp cloth for half an hour, then add extract and color paste to make a delicate shade of pink, working with the hands until creamy. Add almonds cut in pieces, and when well mixed press into a box lined with wax paper. Let stand until firm, and cut in squares. Shredded cocoanut may be used instead of almonds. Milk or thin cream may be substituted for heavy cream, but candy will not be as soft and rich.
These are fondant-type candies worked by hand on a cold surface, and they are less forgiving than modern one-pan fudge. A few of the terms mean something different than they look.
- "Confectioners' sugar" in the vanilla fudgeThe term did not mean quite what the boxed, cornstarch-cut powdered sugar on a modern shelf means, and period usage was not consistent; some sources use it for a very fine powdered sugar, others for fine grades sold to the trade. Granulated sugar dissolves and boils to the soft-ball stage most predictably if you are unsure.
- 238 F is the whole recipeEvery version hinges on hitting soft ball and no higher. A few degrees over and the candy sets hard and grainy before you can work it; under, and it never firms. Calibrate the thermometer in boiling water first and adjust for altitude (subtract about 1 F per 500 feet).
- Cool before beatingThe instruction to let the syrup stand until cold, undisturbed, is not padding. Agitating hot syrup throws large sugar crystals and gives sandy fudge; cooling to roughly 110 F before working is what produces the fine grain that reads as creamy.
- Agate tray, marble slab"Agate" is speckled enamelware over steel. Any large, cold, non-porous surface works: a marble or granite slab, or a rimmed sheet pan. Chill it first and wipe it barely damp, not wet.
- The damp-cloth restCovering the worked fondant for half an hour lets the mass rest and its moisture equalise, which helps it knead smooth rather than crumble. The recipes call for it consistently, so it is worth not skipping.
- Color paste and flavoringsColor paste is the same product sold today as gel paste for icing; a little goes far and it will not thin the fondant the way liquid coloring does. Orange flower water and maraschino cordial are both still available; the old "violet" flavor is essentially violet extract or syrup and is now a specialty item.
- CitronCandied citron peel, sold near the holidays with candied fruit. It is not lemon; if you cannot find it, candied orange peel is the closest substitute in texture.
- CreamModern heavy cream at 36 percent fat or above is what the recipe wants. Ultra-pasteurised cream will work; some cooks find it gives a less rich flavour.
- YieldEach opera fudge, at two cups sugar and one cup cream, makes roughly a pound: about thirty 1-inch squares in a pan about 6 by 6 inches. Store airtight with wax paper between layers.
This section comes from Alice Bradley's The Candy Cook Book (1917); Bradley ran the Miss Farmer's School of Cookery in Boston and wrote for Woman's Home Companion, which explains the thermometer readings and the candy-store technique in a home cookbook. "Opera fudge" is really fondant: sugar and cream boiled to soft ball, cooled, then agitated on a slab so it crystallizes fine, exactly as a professional candy kitchen made cream centers. The name is often said to come from confections sold at theatres and opera houses, though this is folk tradition rather than documented origin, and opera creams remain a regional specialty in Ohio and Kentucky. The pastel layered bars and the run of candied-fruit variations reflect the period's fashion for bonbon dishes of assorted homemade sweets, a gift and party form that hand-worked fondant suited well.