The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Broiled Turkey's Legs

Cut off the legs of a cold roasted turkey, sprinkle them over with salt, pepper and cayenne, and cut them slightly across with a sharp knife. Squeeze some lemon juice over, place them on a well-greased gridiron and broil until nicely browned on both sides over a clear fire. When finished place the legs on a hot dish, baste them with warmed butter, and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A leftovers dish: cooked turkey legs seasoned hard and given a second cooking over fire. The meat is already done, so the only goal is browning and heating through.

A Little History

Broiling or devilling the legs of a roast bird was standard Victorian and Edwardian practice on both sides of the Atlantic, and it survives in British cookery as "devilled turkey" served the day after Christmas. Legs and thighs were considered inferior to breast at a formal table, so they came off the carcass and reappeared at breakfast, luncheon or after the theatre, sharpened with cayenne, mustard or lemon to carry cold meat.

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