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Flavoring (Boil sugar and water until it)
Boil sugar and water until it threads. Pour gradually on stiffly beaten egg white and beat until all has been added and frosting is of right consistency to spread. Flavor with few drops lemon-juice. If chocolate frosting is desired, melt two teaspoonfuls chocolate over hot water and stir into the white icing.
Emergency Ice-cream (to Use up Whites of Eggs) The freezer for this receipt should hold not less than two quarts.
Make a custard with yolks of two eggs, onefourth cup flour, two-thirds cup sugar, few grains salt, and half a can of sweetened condensed milk with water to make up a quart. When cold and ready to freeze add one cup canned evaporated milk, two tablespoonfuls vanilla, and the beaten whites of four eggs. It may be flavored with chocolate (melted over hot water and added to the hot custard), with fresh cut-up peaches rubbed through a sieve, or with bits of chopped ginger.
This receipt, besides using up extra whites of eggs, is useful when fresh milk is scarce.
Apple and Ginger Fluff (Using up Whites of Eggs) For a half cupful of left-over whites of eggs use two-thirds of a cup sifted apple, one-fourth cup powdered sugar, few grains salt, and one teaspoonful ground or chopped crystallized ginger. Take baked apples left from breakfast, or apple sauce.
Rub apple through strainer, sift sugar, put ginger through meat grinder, using finest cutter. Add salt to eggs, beat very stiff, and gradually add sugar, ginger, and a little at a time the apple, beating very hard. Pile in glass dish and put in cool place until ready to serve. It must not stand long, or it will fall. Ginger may be cut into little bits and stirred through the mixture.
Scrambled Eggs (Using up Yolks of Eggs) Yolks of 3 eggs I whole egg Dash of cayenne Dried bread or toast I large tablespoonful bacon cut in bits cup milk tablespoonful butter Prepare crisp dry toast, or use oven-dried slices of bread, if at hand. Beat eggs lightly, add milk and bacon. Melt butter in hot omelet-pan, add the egg mixture, and cook lightly, holding pan up from intense heat. Have hot milk ready in saucepan, dip slices of bread or toast quickly in it, put on hot platter, and pour scrambled eggs over all.
Scrambled Matzoth-Passover Dish (Using up Yolks of Eggs) 3 small round mat- Yolks 3 eggs zoth White 1 egg
Four short receipts run together here, all built around the perennial problem of the leftover half of an egg. Two of them are sound; two finish with raw white that never sees heat.
- The raw-white problemApple and Ginger Fluff is nothing but uncooked egg white folded with apple purée and served cold, and the Emergency Ice-cream folds four raw beaten whites into a custard that has already cooled, then freezes it. Freezing does not kill Salmonella; it only preserves it. For a cold mousse or a custard ice-cream, use a current recipe built on pasteurised whites or a cooked meringue.
- The frosting is the exceptionPouring syrup boiled to the thread onto beating whites is the standard boiled-icing method, and the hot syrup does the cooking. "Threads" is the thread stage, roughly 230-234F on a thermometer -- the syrup falls from the spoon in a fine strand rather than dropping in beads.
- "Two teaspoonfuls chocolate"This most likely means unsweetened baking chocolate, scraped or grated and measured before melting. Cocoa powder is not a substitute here without adjusting the sugar.
- Condensed and evaporated milkA can of sweetened condensed milk ran about 14–15 oz then as now, so half a can is roughly 7 oz; it is diluted with water to make a quart of liquid. Evaporated milk is the unsweetened kind and is not interchangeable with it.
- The freezerA two-quart freezer means a hand-crank churn packed with cracked ice and rock salt, not a compartment in a refrigerator. The instruction to use nothing smaller is presumably about headroom for the mixture to expand as it is beaten.
- "Sifted apple"Apple rubbed through a strainer -- baked apple or plain apple sauce. Two-thirds of a cup of puree is roughly a couple of medium apples' worth.
- Scrambled eggs with baconThis one is straightforwardly cookable. "Holding pan up from intense heat" is the whole technique: lift the pan off the burner as the curd sets so the yolks stay soft.
- The Matzoth receiptThe page breaks off mid-ingredient-list; the method for the Passover dish is not on it. Nothing here is enough to work from.
The Cook Book of Left Overs belongs to a genre of American household writing that treated waste as a moral failing, and the egg was its sharpest test: a great many cakes, custards and mayonnaises of the period called for whites or yolks alone, leaving the other half sitting in a bowl in the pantry. Hence a whole cluster of receipts like these, indexed not by what they are but by what they use up. The aside that the Emergency Ice-cream is "useful when fresh milk is scarce" points at the same period pressure -- condensed and evaporated milk were shelf-stable, cheap and heavily promoted. The scrambled matzoth that follows is a version of what is generally known as matzo brei, folded into a general-purpose household book without comment, which says something about who these books expected to be reading them.