The Cook Book of Left-Overs

What to do with left-over everything, 1911 — beef to cake, four hundred ways to use what the last meal left behind.

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Oatmeal Bread

1 cup cooked oat-½ cup lukewarm milk meal Scant cup luke- 1 tablespoonful sugar warm water 1 tablespoonful butter yeast-cake 1 teaspoonful salt About 4 cups flour or enough to make a stiff drop batter Mix the oatmeal, sugar, salt, butter, and lukewarm milk together. Dissolve the yeast in the luke-warm water and add to the mixture. Stir in the flour gradually, beating it well. The amount of flour necessary will be determined by the softness of the oatmeal. Let rise. This will make one loaf.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain yeast loaf that uses up the bottom of the porridge pot. The ingredient column runs in two parallel lists, so read it as: 1 cup cooked oatmeal, a scant cup lukewarm water, a yeast cake, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ cup lukewarm milk, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, and about 4 cups flour.

A Little History

Left-over cookery books proliferated in the early twentieth century, when household economy was treated as a branch of domestic science. Oats were an everyday grain across Scotland and northern England, where wheat grew poorly, though the characteristic oat breads of that tradition are the unleavened oatcakes and bannocks rather than anything leavened; this version belongs squarely to the thrift tradition, since it starts not with oatmeal but with cooked oatmeal, the breakfast that nobody finished. The cooked cereal does real work in the loaf, holding moisture and keeping the crumb soft for longer than a straight wheat bread of the same size, which is why porridge breads have come back into fashion in modern bakeries under the name "scald" or "porridge" loaves.

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