The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie

A great Victorian hostess's private recipe collection, gathered from the cooks, ambassadors and country houses of a lifetime — never meant for publication, and published after her death exactly as she kept it, attributions and all.

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Paste and Pastry (Any uncooked trimmings will)

Any uncooked trimmings will make patties next day if kept in a cool place, covered by a damp cloth.

Mrs. Pettit's Vol au vent pastry requires equal weight of flour and butter (1½ lb. of each).

Pie Crust. See also Parsley Pie, under Meat Pies and Puddings. Puff Paste. as To every lb. of flour add 2 ozs. butter, and rub it well in between your hands lightly as possible, for the less it is handled the better; make a hole in the middle and put in the yolk of an egg, and a little water; in summer the coldest water you can procure; in very cold weather, a spoonful of boiling water, mixed with the cold water, will improve the paste. Then mix it till it is rather stiff but not hard. The principal difficulty is in adding the water, to which the greatest attention should be paid. When mixed smooth, roll it out, and put nearly half the butter you mean to use in small pieces all over it. Puff paste will be lighter if the butter is rather less in weight than the flour. Shake some flour upon it with your hand, and roll it up then roll it out again and put the remainder of the butter, and sprinkle a little flour over it as before: fold it up again, and roll it out once, but not thin. - Turn the ends and sides to the middle, and fold it once; then roll it out again, fold it up, and set it in a cold place for at least 10 minutes before you finally roll it out for use. The morning is the best time to make the paste, the oven should be hot so as to raise it but the oven door should not be opened if it is possible to avoid it, as that would cause the paste to fall and to draw to one side. -- Short Crust Paste. See Puffs, No. 6, under Sweet Dishes. Short Sugar Paste for Fruit Pies. (Mrs. Weston.) Rub 6 ozs. of fresh butter into 1 lb. of flour. Mix in 6 ozs. of powdered loaf sugar add the yolk of one egg well beaten, with as much warm water as will make it into a stiff paste.

N.B. - Marrow quite fresh, very carefully picked and cleaned, used instead of butter (as in Lancashire), makes the best short crust for pastry, "shorter" than butter, best also for cakes and buns, and makes delicious baked rice "nursery" puddings, there taking the place of eggs.

Ice the crust with sugar, but never meringue it, or the crust will be leathery. Vol au vent Paste. (Mr. Taton.) 3/4 lb. butter to 1 lb. of flour; mix half the butter with the flour; then make a hole in it and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; add a pinch of salt, and the yolk of 1 egg. Mix all with cold water, and take care the paste is not too stiff. Spread the rest of the butter over the paste and fold paste 5 or 6 times; let it rest some minutes between each time you fold it up. Try a piece in the oven, and should the oven not be of an even heat, give the paste one roll more, whilst it gets so. (For another Vol au vent Paste, see end of Piecrust recipe.) INCLUDING SOME GAME AND POULTRY PIES AND PUDDINGS.

For other Soufflés and Pies, see Game. For paste and crust for meat and game pies see also Paste and Pastry. Beef and Oyster Pie, a Cornish Dish. (Mrs. Backhouse. 1881.) This is merely the addition of an oyster rolled up in each little piece of beef. It gives an excellent flavour, and the oysters themselves cook most agreeably in their beef blankets.

For good crust see Paste and Pastry for Recipes.

The beef must be carefully trimmed from fat, which does not suit with the oysters. Beef Pies.

N.B. - For servants' hall pies or puddings, ask for beef "skirt," as more tender than any other part, except the rump, and free from gristle. (A "skirt and kidney pie" is a favourite dish in the country.) Beefsteak Pudding. No. 1. For Two People. (Isa. Emslie. 1892.) Ingredients: The trimmings and parings of rump steak fillets, ¼ lb. suet, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and a pinch of salt, with enough water to mix lightly into a paste. Beat the meat well, shred a small onion fine, put it and meat in basin with a little pepper and salt, add a teacupful of stock, and put paste lid over and for one inch down sides of basin, not more. Tie a floured cloth over, boil 5 hours. Take off cloth and serve in the basin.

Before sending to table open the paste at the side to see if the pudding wants more hot stock added; it very rarely does.

Beefsteak Pudding. No. 2. "Our Beefsteak Pudding." (Mrs. Sherwood.) 1 lb. flour to ½ lb. beef or mutton suet minced fine. Mix well, and add a pinch of salt and as much cold water as is wanted to make it into a stiff paste. Roll it out and line a basin with it. Have 22 or 3½ lbs. of tender beefsteak (a very little fat. but no skin or gristle). Cut it up neatly, and pack it in layers in the paste-lined basin with a little chopped parsley leaf and plenty of sliced onion. Season with a little pepper and salt, add a teacupful of good stock, and dredge a small spoonful of flour over all. Cover with a paste lid, and tie tight over all a cloth floured on the inside. Boil for full 3 or 4 hours, and serve up in the basin. Add more hot stock or hot beef gravy free from fat, at the last, as much as it will take. Ham and bacon improve the pudding. Mrs. Wellington's beefsteak pudding is similar to above, but she always adds ham 1½ lb. ham fat and lean, but no skin to 2 lbs. steak without fat or gristle, both ham and steak cut in slices. Her paste is ½ lb. flour to 5 ozs. suet, and she fringes the inside of top of basin with it for 1½ or 2 in., no lower, "or it will suck up the gravy." She omits all onion and uses a little shallot instead, and mushroom peelings, or, failing latter, ½ teaspoonful of mushroom catsup, and adds a teacupful of good stock. Beef and Oyster Pudding. 2 lbs. of fillet from underside of sirloin, 4 doz. oysters with their liquor, but no "beards" or horny part, a wineglassful sherry, the same of catsup, shallot and pepper to taste.

Paste same as for Beefsteak Pudding, No. 2. "Birk Hall Excursion Pie."

A cold Game pie.

This requires 4 grouse or 6 partridge to make a very good pie. If you take grouse, use the fillets only, and as large as you can get without bones. Make clear or thick soup of the rest of the birds. Lay the grouse or partridge fillets in the pie-dish with a sliced onion and some chopped truffles; season, and cover with first stock; then add the paste and remember to make a hole as "chimney" in the centre of the paste under the centre ornament or "rose," to let out unwholesome steam.

For the paste take ½ lb. flour, 4 ozs. butter or some dripping, 1 egg, a little salt, and as much water as will make it into a stiff paste; work it well. Prepare the crust of this, and put it on.

Put the pie to bake in the oven. In 1½ hours the paste will be a nice brown. If it is so, the pastry is done enough, but the birds will require ½ hour's additional simmering to make them tender (i.e., 2 hours in all); so cover the paste quickly with paper to prevent its catching, and if the oven bottom is cool, as it is at Birk Hall, put the pie on that, but if it is hot (as in many ovens), then put the pie on the top of the hot plate, or wherever it is cool, to simmer the meat the additional ½ hour. Take off the paper and replace the "rose." Serve cold for an excursion or for breakfast. For another pie use grouse fillets and thigh only, drawing down the carcase and drumstricks with a slice of lean ham, 2 or 3 sliced onions, 1 sliced carrot, a stick of celery, a little parsley, very little pepper, no salt; let there be 1 pt. when strained. Put half into the dish with the fillets and a little chopped shallot, or onion if shallot cannot be got. The pastry and baking to be the same as for the Birk Hall pie, but when the pie is taken out of the oven take off the "rose," and quickly pour into the pie, through a funnel, the rest of the gravy boiling hot, replacing the "rose" finally when the pie is cold. Black Puddings. (Beechwood Recipe altered by Isa. Emslie. 1892.) Stew 2 large handfuls of whole groats ("Embden Groats" are best), or even rice, or a teacupful of oatmeal, in new milk till tender. Mix with it ¼ lb. of crumb of bread, and when cold add ½ or ½ lb. of beef suet nicely chopped; season with pepper and salt, parsley, chopped pennyroyal and sweet marjoram, also raw onion or raw shallot chopped small, 2 pieces of pig's fat (called "fleed," i.e., fat before it is melted), or use lard not melted, 3 well-beaten eggs both yolks and whites, and 1 pt. of pig's blood strained.

Enough for three or four dishes.

Clean the skins thoroughly, scraping them inside with a knife till quite clear and transparent. Fill them in long pieces, but not quite full, so as to leave them room to swell.

Boil gently in a kettle of water 20 minutes, pricking them all the time to prevent their bursting.

Lay them out on a clean cloth. Broil them before sending them to table. You may, if preferred, bake the mixture in a pie - dish and when cold cut it up and fry it in slices. (See also under Meat, Mutton and Lamb - how to use whole sheep.) "Boudin à la Richelieu."See Rabbit Pudding.

Chicken, for a Pie of. See Parsley Pie, also Partridge Soufflé, under Game. Chicken and Liver Pie. Cold. (Mrs. Rothery.) For a small one, the proportion is 1 fowl or pheasant to ½ lb. of fresh calf's liver. If more is wanted to "make out," prepare some veal as for quenelles (see Meat - Veal). The calf's liver must be cut into pieces an inch square, with fat and lean bacon in tiny dice. Add chopped shallot, and parsley, salt, pepper, and spice. Fry all gently on a slow fire, stirring often. When the liver and bacon are thoroughly cooked, drain off the fat. Put the meat into a mortar, beat it to a paste, and season. Bone the fowl or pheasant, cut it in pieces, and put it in a saucepan with a little butter to fry, but do not brown it too much; season to taste, and add cloves, allspice, &c. Have a pie - dish and put some of the forcemeat in, then a layer of game, and so on till the dish is full. Arrange so that a layer of forcemeat is at top. the dish must not be quite full.

Steam 2 or 3 hours according to size.

When cooked, press down the contents with a spoon, and when cold, run lard or clarified butter on the top. This dish is for luncheon, breakfast, or supper. Chicken Pudding. Cold. (Bate. 1880.) To use up fowl, or turkey, or game.

Pound all the meat and pass it through a wire sieve; use no fat, skin, or gristle; season with a little mace, pepper, and nutmeg. The meat must, as you pound it, be moistened with a little good white sauce, strongly flavoured with mushroom. If you have no mushroom, add a little finely minced truffle. Add a yolk of egg to the mixture to bind it. Two stiff whipped whites of egg must be lightly added at the last, and then steam slowly for 20 minutes. You serve it cold with aspic jelly for luncheon or supper. Chicken, Little Puddings.

Take the white meat from a cooked chicken or turkey, clean it of skin and gristle, chop it very fine, and season to taste.

Beat up 2 eggs with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream; add it to the chicken with a few bread-crumbs.

Beat all well together.

Butter some cups and put in the mixture; ¼ hour will boil the puddings. Turn them out and serve with white sauce.

Cottage Pie. See Pedro Pie.

Dutch Savoury Pudding. (1879.) Have 2 ozs. of butter in a pan, to it beat 6 yolks of egg. Whisk the 6 whites to a strong froth, apart. Flavour yolks and butter with fine herbs and shallot. Season at the last, mix in the whites, put into a buttered plain mould or basin. Steam 20 minutes. Turn out. Serve a good gravy in a boat with it.

You may make this a sweet pudding by using sugar and lemon peel or vanilla instead of herbs, &c. In this case a nice fruit sauce is wanted in a boat to correct the egg flavour. Games Pies and Puddings. See Chicken Pudding and Birk Hall Excursion Pie. Game Pie.

A cold Pie. No crust.

Pound remains of hare or any cooked game with a little beef suet; mix with a little panada of flour, butter, and stock, the yolk of 1 egg, salt, allspice, or pounded mace. Line a pie-dish with this; cover the bottom with fillets of uncooked game or veal, or ham, or poultry; then another layer of forcemeat, and so on till the dish is three parts full, then the bones on top, and a common crust over, merely as a temporary lid to keep in savour.

Put the pie to bake 3 hours in or on a slow oven; when done take it out of the oven, and when nearly cold take off both crust and bones, and fill up the dish with a good stock that will jelly.

The remains of jugged hare pounded do well for this forcemeat. "Gnocchi," to go with a ragout. See Preface. "Goose Pie." A Yorkshire Dish.

This differs little from a game pie, except that its chief ingredient is goose. A fine goose is selected, carefully boned, and laid out flat; on it are laid fowl, pheasant, or any convenient game, i.e., birds only; hares are too strong in flavour for this dish; all well seasoned and tightly wrapped inside the goose wrapping and baked in a raised paste; every cranny to be filled up with forcemeat as in other pies, all the trimmings, &c., to be well drawn down to a stiff jelly, which must be added in a liquid state, little by little, through a funnel, as much as pie will hold, poured in "under the rose," i.e., the paste stopper.

Made in much the same way in Cornwall.

Do not scruple to add rabbits if it suits a somewhat empty larder. Grouse Pudding. No. 1. Mr. Lowther's.

A pudding made with quite old unboned grouse, juicy rump steak and good stock. The pudding to boil rather slowly, or it will get dry. The birds are not meant to be eaten, merely put in to flavour the steak.

Grouse Pudding. No. 2. Patterdale.

To come up in a basin with a cloth round it.

The paste is made of finely chopped beef suet. Edge the basin only with paste, for except as a rim, it absorbs gravy too much. Put a thin slice of beef at the bottom; season with pepper, salt, and a little chopped onion.

The grouse should be boned, jointed, and laid in the basin till it is full. Season to taste. Fill up the basin with a strong gravy drawn down from the bones and unused fragments of grouse. Cover the basin with a paste lid; tie a cloth over and boil 4 hours, not too fast.

A similar recipe is - Grouse Pudding. No. 3. Sutherland.

This must be very slowly boiled. Line a large basin with thick light suet crust, using finely chopped beef suet; lay the backs of the grouse at the bottom to flavour it through. Then put in nicely cut beefsteaks or fillets, seasoned and with a good gravy. Fill in with choice bits of grouse, breast, wings, and thighs of the birds; and put the suet crust over all. This pudding should have "long, long boiling." Serve in the basin with a cloth folded round. Use old grouse.

Grouse Soufflé. (Emslie. 1890.) This is made same as Partridge Soufflé, see Game, substituting grouse for partridge; but the stock for Grouse Soufflé need not be white.

Hare Pie. See Game Pie.

Hare Pie. Cold. (Mrs. Wellington.) Cook in a pie - dish if you have no "terrine," i.e., French fireproof earthenware dish, but latter is best.

Take the fillets off the hare, lard them, and keep them on one side. Pound the rest of the meat with an equal quantity of the fat of pork, and then season with ground pepper, a grate of nutmeg and pounded herbs, basil, marjoram, bay-leaf, but no sage; all passed through a sieve.

Lay the larded hare fillets in a dish, and about the centre put in truffles or strips of tongue, or of ham or bacon, cut 3 ins. long and 1 thick. Fill the dish up with the pounded hare, and bake with a common paste cover, only wanted to keep in the savour.

When put into the oven, it must stand in a pan with water one inch deep. When cooked, take out of oven and remove the paste cover, and put a dish on to the meat with a 14-lb. weight to press it firmly.

When cold, cover the meat with clarified butter or with lard. Serve cold.

Hare Pudding. See Hare "Pain de Gibier," under Game. "Hunter's Pie" Take the best part of a neck of mutton and cut it into chops, free from fat, season with pepper, salt, and onions and let them brown in a stewpan for 1½ hour. Have about 2 dozen potatoes boiled and nicely mashed. Butter a plain mould and line it with the mashed potatoes, put in the chops and onions and cover them with the mashed potatoes. Bake ½ hour in the oven. Turn it out, make a hole in the pie and pour in some boiling hot gravy or stock.

Kidney Pudding. (Isa. Emslie. 1884.) Ingredients; 9 sheep's kidneys sliced, a little of the fillet of beef, a slice of raw ham minced, a little shredded onion and parsley, good stock to half fill up the basin, pepper and salt; paste for top of basin only, with just a rim besides. To cook in a potato - steamer, with hard boiling water below. - Cook well 5 hours; add in a little more gravy 10 minutes before or even just before serving. Steaming in this way does better than boiling, makes it richer and more mellow. Cooked meat, if you use up kidneys and sautéd steaks, requires to be steamed only 3 hours. Then fresh onion and ham will be required to flavour. Kidney Soufflé. (Mrs. Jamieson, Edinburgh. 1885.) "A la Hugo," in dariole moulds.

Take a quite fresh ox kidney. Remove all fat and skin, and cut it up small; then pound it in a mortar. Pass it through a hair sieve. Season with pepper and salt. Whisk into it 1½ pt. of thick cream and 1 egg. Butter some moulds, and lay a thin slice of truffle at the bottom of each mould. Fill each mould with the mixture, and steam slowly ¼ hour. Glaze them after turning them out, and serve in Half-glaze sauce. Macaroni Pie. No. 1. (Wootton Lodge.) Mince 1 lb. of veal, chicken, or any white meat, very fine; if uncooked, stew it first gently on the fire ½ hour in ½ pt. of stock, but should the meat have been cooked before, it will merely require warming up again in a little cream or stock, or gravy if cream be scarce, or in a little Béchamel or other white sauce, see Sauces for Meat, "Sauce for Macaroni Pie." White Sauce for Rabbit, under Sauces for Poultry and Game, is also good for this pie.

Stew some macaroni soft in salt and water, and cut it into dice; add it to the meat. Bacon fat (the red lean of bacon is too salt and hard), ham, or tongue should also be minced with the meat, and the remains of a sweetbread if it can be spared. If the sauce wants thickening dredge a little flour into the pan, and add ½ teacupful of thin cream, or more gravy if preferred; of course more Béchamel is better than flour and cream. Button mushrooms or peelings of the large flat mushrooms much improve the flavour, or you may use instead truffles, grated Parmesan cheese, or even stewed peas. Serve on a hot-water dish with a cover over it. There is no pastry; it is merely a delicate mince.

If to be shaped as a pie, the sides must be of strong paste (not to eat), and only the top, which is of "feuilletage" (see Paste and Pastry), will be eaten. The pastry is baked separately, sides and top powdered with grated Parmesan, then the pie mixture is poured in, and the pastry top clapped on.

Macaroni Pie. No. 2. (Mrs. Hawkes.) Ingredients: ¼ lb. of macaroni boiled till tender, some good gravy, a bit of butter thickened with flour, and some thin slices of ham and sweetbread cut in slices, seasoned with pepper and salt.

Mix all together, and put into a puff-paste-lined mould. Bake 1 hour in a moderate oven.

Macaroni Pudding. No. 1.

Boil macaroni till tender, and cut it in very small pieces. Pound any cooked white meat you have, and grate some cooked ham or tongue; add chopped parsley, sweet herbs, chopped mushrooms, and chopped onion, and work all well in a basin with 2 whole eggs. Butter a plain mould, steam 1 hour, turn out and serve in a good white sauce with or without button mushrooms.

Macaroni Pudding. No. 2. (Beechwood.) Boil ½ lb. of macaroni quite tender with a little mace, the yolks of 4 eggs, and the whites of 2. Put in a little fowl or white veal pounded, and bread cut in dice. Add a little grated tongue or ham and a pint of double cream. Beat all well together, and put it in a mould; flavour with mushroom peelings. Steam it 1½ hours, and dish it up with plain white sauce and button mushrooms.

Macaroni Pudding. No. 3. Savoury.

Prepare the meat as for mince; season it well. Have the macaroni previously cooked in boiling water; be careful not to break it; keep the macaroni as a long unbroken coil. Butter a pudding basin, and line it with the macaroni coiled round and round against the bottom and sides as close together as possible. Put in the minced meat, pressing it firmly down, and fill the basin quite full. Tie it with a paper and a cloth as a pudding, and boil it 3/4 hour or an hour.

When turned out, serve with white sauce round it.

Macaroni Timbale. (Tillypronie.) Boil some macaroni thoroughly, and line a mould with it. The inside filling of the timbale is of cooked white meat of fowl or game, with sweetbread if to be got, and ham or tongue or bacon, all cut in dice; also add mushrooms or truffles if you have them. Warm up the meat first in 2 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), then beat up the yolks of 3 eggs, the white of 1 only, and add the other ingredients at the last.

Pour the mixture into the mould previously lined with macaroni. Steam 1 hour. Serve with more sauce round.

Mutton Pie (Hot).

Use neck of mutton, and enrich the pie with forcemeat balls of Veal Quenelle or Rabbit Quenelle mixture (see Meat, see also Game) rolled with a little flour, also mushrooms or chopped truffles and a very good gravy. Mutton and Oyster Pudding. - Mr. Monckton Milnes's Recipe. Materials: A loin of mutton and 4 doz. oysters.

First Part.

Line a basin with a good light beef suet crust. Take all the lean from the upper side of a loin of mutton. Cut it crossways 1¼ in. thick, carefully taking away all fat, gristle, or skin. Place these slices of mutton in layers in the basin. Between each layer powder a little pepper and salt. Shake in lightly a little flour, and add a few bits of butter. Leave a hollow in the centre of the pudding, and when all the mutton is in fill the hollow with 4 doz. fresh oysters, the "beards" and horny part trimmed off. Sprinkle the oysters over with pepper and salt, and cover them up with slices of the fillet, i.e., the underside of the loin of mutton, filling up the basin with stock or water. Now cover all over with a piece of the suet crust. Tie a cloth tight over the basin, and boil very slowly for 4 hours. Second Part.

Put the "beards" of the oysters to simmer in the oyster liquor till all the goodness is out of them; then strain the liquor; add to it some gravy and a little butter rolled in flour with a little pepper and salt and boil it up. Just before serving make an opening in the crust, and pour this oyster liquor into the pudding, that it may all incorporate a little and blend with the pudding.

Serve the pudding very hot in the basin in which it is cooked with a napkin arranged round it.

Mutton Soufflé. (Mrs. Wellington. 1876.) From the even underside of cold roast loin of mutton take ½ lb. of nicely picked meat, pound it, and put it through a sieve. Work in gradually 2 yolks of egg and 1½ teacupful of cream.

Season to taste, then whisk 1 white of egg to a strong froth, and add at the last. Steam, serve cold with a sauce. It will take ½ hour to cook in a mould or 20 minutes if in separate small moulds.

Parsley Pie, a Devonshire and Cornish Dish. (Trebah.) Prepare 2 chickens for the pie jointed as for a fricassee. Lay in the bottom of a pie-dish a layer about an inch deep of very young parsley (nipped off the stalks and squeezed in a cloth, as the juice is very bitter). Season the joints of chicken, mince a little blanched Portugal onion and 2 shallots, and strew over the chicken with a seasoning of pepper, salt, 1 breakfast lump of white sugar powdered, and a very little mace and nutmeg also, if you like spices. Lay the joints on the bed of parsley; cover with another layer of parsley, and add more chicken and more parsley in alternate layers till the pie-dish is full.

Pour in a very little good veal stock, and cover all with an ordinary pie crust made so: ½ lb. flour, 4 ozs. butter, 1 egg, a little salt, and enough water to make into good stiff paste; work it well.

In Cornwall they cover the bottom of the pie - dish with a few slices of veal and bacon (to flavour it only, not to eat); and the yolks of hard - boiled eggs cut in half, with bacon or ham or tongue cut in dice, are laid in with each layer of chicken and improve the pie much. When the pie is baked, make a small hole in the centre of the crust and pour in 1½ pt. of double cream, boiling hot.

The spices and shallots are often omitted, and only 1½ an onion used. Partridge Pie. See Birk Hall Excursion Pie, Pigeon Pie, and end of Rabbit Pie; see also Partridge Soufflé, under Game. "Pease Pudding, Hot," to Eat with Pork.

Soak 1/2 a pint of yellow split peas more than 1 hour in cold water; drain them well; tie them up loosely in a cloth, and boil with the pork 1½ hours of the time that the pork is cooking.

Then pass the peas through a tammy, and mix with them 1 egg, a little cream and white pepper. (No salt.) Put this into a well-buttered basin and steam ¼ hour, just to make it set. Turn the pudding out and serve it with the pork. Pedro Pie (or Cottage Pie).

You must have a perforated tin lid for this dish. 1½ lbs. of rump steak, or neck of mutton chops, free from fat, a little butter and a teacupful of stock, 1½ onion sliced, a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Dredge it lightly over with flour, and put in pie-dish in oven covered with a tight-fitting paper lid. Now boil and mash some old mealy potatoes.

When the meat has been 1 hour in the oven, take the dish out of oven; take off the paper lid; and put the prepared potatoes on top of the perforated tin lid mentioned, piling them high towards the centre and "roughing" them with a fork to look rocky. Skim all fat off meat; put the potato lid on covered tin, and replace dish in oven. A second hour will finish cooking the meat, and will brown the mashed potatoes on the top. Tins for this pie can be bought with the loose perforated lid and a "chimney" in centre to let out steam. When served, place lid on a dish, and help potatoes from lid with meat.

Mrs. Dick for "genuine Pedro pie" (for 3 at luncheon) uses 4 chops of pork or mutton trimmed from fat and put in a pie - dish with seasoning of flour, pepper and salt; add a little chopped onion and, for pork only, sage. Just cover with second stock, and put a tin close over. Put in the oven to stew 1 hour. Then cover with hot mashed potatoes, and put back for 1½ hour to brown.

Pheasant Pie. See Chicken and Liver Pie.

Pigeon Pie. (Mrs. Thomas.) Best without beef. Six young birds halved, boned and nicely stuffed with forcemeat; a good stong stock.

Make the forcemeat for stuffing of 2 lbs. very fresh calf's liver, also ½ lb. good uncooked stock ham, fat and lean; chop all small, and put with a little shallot and a few herbs to braise ³¼ hour, just covered with broth; shake the pan gently every now and then, then take out the herbs, and pass the rest through a wire sieve. If you cannot get calf's liver, and must use other stuffing, put slices of the fillet (or rump) of beef and ¼ lb. of ham in slices at the bottom of the dish to flavour. Put in more stock boiling hot through "chimney," i.e., the hole in top of crust, just before you serve. Partridge pie is excellent done this way with calf's liver stuffing. Mushrooms or truffles improve the pie. Raise the pigeons on croûtons. (For another forcemeat see Stuffing for Hare No. 1, under Stuffings.) Pork Pie.

Use the loin, but no bones; flavour with sage and also with shallot or onion passed through a sieve; give a delicate seasoning, and use white stock for this pie. Rabbit Pie. (Mrs. Thomas.) (Cold. - Most useful for excursions before other game comes into season.) 4 rabbits for a large pie. Bone them all except the shoulders and legs of 2, and pick all the meat off the backs; draw down all trimmings and bones for gravy, with 1 onion, 1 stick of celery, 1 carrot, and a little stock ham or cushion of bacon. Cover the ingredients with water if you cannot spare second stock or mutton broth. Make a forcemeat thus; pound the meat of the 2 remaining sets of shoulders and legs, and pass through a sieve; in the same way prepare the same weight of bacon or ham, fat and lean, half and half. Add seasoning and a little chopped truffle previously stewed till tender in its own liquor and in a little stock; add wine also if you like. If you have no truffle add chopped shallot or onion raw. Stuff the legs and shoulders of the 2 boned rabbits with this forcemeat, and add them to the pie, ¼ lb. ham in slices, and, if the weather is pretty cool (for in hot weather they turn pie sour) 6 hard-boiled yolks of egg cut in halves. Season the pie; then pour in ½ pt. of gravy strained through a sieve, keeping back another 1½ pt. till the pie is nearly baked, when it may be poured boiling hot through a strainer into the "chimney" of the pie, removing the paste "rose" centre ornament for the purpose. Do not replace the "rose" till the pie is cold. Partridge pie is done in the same way, but requires a good first stock, as the meat does not jelly.

Veal pie is much the same, but the veal must be well beaten and each piece of ham or bacon must be rolled up in a thin slice of veal. Veal jellies well, not so beef or venison. Rabbit Pudding, "Boudin à la Richelieu." (Beechwood.) Take all the meat off bones of 2 cooked rabbits. After the rabbits have been well pounded add some fat brawn and pound well together with a little bread soaked in milk. Add some shallot, a little parsley chopped fine, pepper and salt just to flavour it. Pound all together very fine and mix it up with 2 eggs, whites and yolks. Make it of a proper stiffness; if too soft add a little flour. Make it into 2 long rolls and boil them 2 minutes in sufficient boiling water just to cover them. Dish them up with white sauce, made of the bones of the rabbits and stewed with mushrooms and some herbs. "Roman Pie" - Rabbit. (Miss Byrom.) Boil a rabbit, and cut off all the meat as thin as possible. Boil 2 ozs. macaroni very tender; grate 2 ozs. Parmesan; chop some shallot fine; add sweetbread, chopped mushroom or truffle, or ham, or tongue. Add a small 1½ pt. of cream. Line a mould with good paste, sprinkled with vermicelli if preferred; make a good paste lid to go over also. Grate Parmesan inside the paste case when baked. Bake an hour. Serve with brown sauce.

Rook Pies.

You require the young birds in spring, skin them instead of plucking them, use the breast only of each bird, and let them lie some little time in milk before you make the pie. This is to take away the strong flavour of these birds. Savoury Pudding.

Put a pint of cream on the fire, and when it boils add 3 tablespoonfuls of vermicelli cut small; let it simmer about 5 minutes; add 3 eggs both yolks and whites; beat all up together with a little more cream, salt, white pepper, shallot and mushroom peelings. Line a mould with small pieces of cold cooked tongue, or ham, and truffles, and carefully pour in this mixture.

Bake, or steam, and when turned out serve with a good brown sauce such as "à la Dreux" (see Grouse Fillets No. 2, under Game), or "Demi-glace" (see Sauces for Meat), or "Fines Herbes" (see Sauces for Fish).

Sheep's Head Pie.

Get a sheep's head and feet, the head scalded, both head and feet singed. After being thoroughly cleaned, boil till the meat will easily separate from the bones. Then strain, allowing the jelly and meat to stand till quite cold. Then fill a pie dish, first with a layer of jelly, then neat slices of the meat, then of ham, and of hard-boiled egg. Fill up the dish with the remainder of the jelly, cover it with crust, and as soon as the paste is cooked a nice brown, the pie will be ready. (Another copy says for ingredients 2 sheep's heads and trotters cooked like Sheep's Head No. 3 (see Meat), tongue and all, but do not crumb them for a pie.) Suet Puddings with Boiled Beef. (J.E. 1892.) 1½ lb. of beef suet, ½ lb. of flour, ½ teaspoonful of Yeatman's dried yeast, pinch of salt, and cold water to mix.

Shape this into balls the size of Mandarin oranges, and pop into the pot of simmering silver-side of beef and vegetables, to boil ³¼ hour. Serve with the vegetables round the beef.

Swiss Pie.

This comes up in a pie-dish without crust.

Cut some onion and a kidney into tiny bits, take the fat off the best end of a neck of nutton and cut the mutton into chops. Put a layer of mutton, kidney and onion in a pie-dish, then a layer of sliced potatoes, with a little pepper and salt; then chops again, and so on till the dish is full. Lastly sliced potatoes at the top, instead of crust. Add a strong beef gravy and bake it well. "Toad in a Hole." See Meat - Beef.

Turkey Puddings. See Chicken, Little Puddings.

Veal Pie. See Rabbit Pie.

White Puddings. No. 1. (Lord Provost Henderson. 1880.) Ingredients: 3 lbs. fresh beef suet very finely picked and minced, 4½ lbs. oatmeal, 3 chopped onions, pepper and salt to taste, and, if liked, a little thyme also. Ask butcher for "pudding rings," or sheep's bladder will do. Before using them clean well, soaking them 24 hours in salt and water, and changing the water several times. After cleaning the skins turn them inside out, and fill them by inserting the meat at one end (it gradually turns as you fill, so the inner side must be outside when you begin). The skins must not be quite filled, as the pudding mixture will swell in cooking. Prick the skins and boil 1 hour, then tie them in short lengths and hang them up. When wanted for use, boil them again and heat them on a gridiron. If onions are used, the pudding will not keep so well, as onions are apt to become mouldy. White puddings are served for dinner round boiled cod with potatoes and melted butter, in old Scotch houses.

White Puddings. No. 2. (Lady Farquhar.) 1 lb. of oatmeal, well dried, ½ lb. fresh beef suet, 2 onions minced, pepper and salt to taste. Get skins from the butcher - wipe well with a dry cloth - fill, and tie with twine. Boil all together 20 minutes, take out and let them stand till cold. Store in dry oatmeal. When required cook slowly on a gridiron. Cut in any lengths preferred as if they were sausages.

Yorkshire Pudding. No. 1. (Farley Hall.) Take 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and mix it smooth with new milk to the consistency of cream. Beat 3 eggs very well, mix them with the flour and milk, and immediately pour it into the Yorkshire pudding tin, which must be ready hot before the fire, and the fat in it boiling. The eggs must not stand at all, as the lightness of the pudding depends upon that, and on the tin being hot and the fat boiling. Yorkshire Pudding. No. 2. (Mrs. Wellington. 1877.) This has a dish of its own, a regular Yorkshire pudding tin if for the Sunday beef, but if for two or four people only, use a sauté pan. It must be put down inside the clean dripping pan under the joint.

The batter should be mixed fully 1 hour before and allowed to stand. For the batter take ¼ lb. of flour with a pinch of salt, make a hole in the centre and add 3 eggs, yolks and whites. Mix into it a little of the flour wall, with a wooden spoon; add 1 pint of milk gradually, and work the mixture well up. The pan which is to hold the pudding should be well greased with the dripping, but not more than that; pour in the mixture and let it remain ½ hour dripped on by the joint which is roasting. Then turn the pudding and finish it in the oven. It will take about 2 hour more.

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