Birds' Nest

This is a Scotch egg in all but name, and the terse Victorian wording leaves out every number a modern cook wants. The points below supply them.

• Force-meatNineteenth-century force-meat is seasoned ground meat — usually pork or veal — bound with breadcrumbs, egg and suet, and flavoured with mace, nutmeg, thyme and lemon peel. Bulk sausage meat is the closest supermarket equivalent; loosen it with a little breadcrumb so it moulds without cracking.
• QuantityNo amounts are given. Reckon on about 2 oz (55 g) of force-meat per egg, which gives a coating of roughly a quarter-inch. Six eggs will take roughly 12 oz of meat.
• Hard-boiled, but not overdoneThe eggs get a second cooking inside the meat, so stop short of the chalky stage: 9 minutes at a bare simmer, then straight into ice water so the shells slip off cleanly. Older eggs peel more willingly than very fresh ones.
• Sealing the coatThis is the step that decides the dish. Wet your hands, flatten the force-meat into a disc, and wrap it round the egg so no seam remains — any gap will open in the pan and the meat will slide off. Chilling the wrapped eggs 20 minutes firms them before cooking.
• Fry or bakeTo fry, roll in beaten egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fry at 350F for 6 to 8 minutes. To bake, brush with egg and put in a 400F oven for 25 to 30 minutes. Either way the force-meat must reach 160F at the centre, since it is raw ground meat.
• The gravyThe recipe says only 'with gravy' and gives no formula; a brown gravy of pan drippings thickened with flour and stock is the obvious match. Spoon it into the dish and set the halved eggs cut side up on top, rather than pouring it over and dulling the crust.
• YieldTwo halves make a first course or a supper dish; four make a plate. Serve warm rather than piping hot, when the yolk has settled and the seasoning in the meat reads clearly.