The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

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Pear Pickles

Prepare syrup as for peaches, pare and cut fruit in halves, or quarters if very large, and if small leave whole, put syrup in porcelain kettle, and when it boils put in fruit, cook until a silver fork will easily pierce them; skim out fruit first and place in jar, and last pour over syrup boiling hot; spice like peach pickles, draining them each day, boiling and skimming the syrup, and pouring it boiling hot over the fruit until fully done. By cooking pears so much longer at first they do not need to be boiled so frequently, but they must be watched carefully until finished, and if perfectly done, will keep two or more years. Apple pickles may be made in the same way, taking care to select such as will not lose shape in boiling. .

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is an open-kettle sweet pickle of the kind that filled Southern pantry shelves before anyone measured acidity or processing time. The vocabulary is worth decoding, but the preserving method is not usable, and the points below explain why.

A Little History

The Dixie Cook Book belongs to the family of compilations built out of Estelle Woods Wilcox's Buckeye Cookery, re-edited in the 1880s with Southern contributors and Southern produce, and its pickle chapters are long because sweet pickling was one of the few ways to keep a heavy fruit crop through winter. Sweet pickles — fruit cooked in vinegar, sugar and whole spice — sit between the preserve and the condiment, and were eaten with roast and cured meats rather than as dessert. The technique of drawing off the syrup for several successive days, boiling it down and returning it hot, was standard in nineteenth-century preserving manuals: each pass concentrated the sugar a little further while the fruit gradually took it up, which was thought to keep the halves firm instead of shrivelling them in one heavy syrup. The recipe's confidence that a well-made jar would last "two or more years" reflects a household economy in which the pantry, not the calendar, decided when something was finished.

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