The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

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Quince Jelly

Rub the quinces with a cloth until perfectly smooth, cut in small pieces, pack tight in a kettle, pour on cold water until level with the fruit, boil until very soft; make a three-cornered flannel bag, pour in fruit and hang up to drain, occasionally pressing on the top and sides to make the juice run more freely, taking care not to press hard enough to expel the pulp. There is not much need of pressing a bag made in this shape, as the weight of the fruit in the larger part causes the juice to flow freely at the point. To a pint of juice add a pint of sugar and boil fifteen minutes, or until it is jelly; pour into tumblers, or bowls, and finish according to general directions. If quinces are scarce, the parings and cores of quinces with good tart apples, boiled and strained as above, make excellent jelly, and the quinces are saved for preserves. - Mrs. M. J. W.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straight-ahead pectin-rich jelly that needs almost nothing but quince, water, sugar and a way to test the set. The one thing the original leaves vague is doneness: fifteen minutes is a starting point, not an instruction.

A Little History

Quince was a standard fixture of the American preserving pantry well into the twentieth century, valued precisely because it is nearly inedible raw: hard, astringent, and so loaded with pectin and acid that it jellies almost without help, in an era before commercial pectin was sold in boxes. The fruit's long association with preserving is reflected in the word marmalade, which reaches us through the Portuguese marmelo, meaning quince. The Dixie Cook Book credits individual contributors by initials — here Mrs. M. J. W. — and her closing note about saving the whole fruits for preserves and jellying only the parings and cores is characteristic household economy: the trimmings carry the pectin, so nothing of value is thrown out.

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