The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

HomeOrnamental Icing › To Make Water Icing

To Make Water Icing

Take any quantity of powdered sugar you require, add cold water enough to it to form a thick paste (remember, it will not take much); beat well, and if too thin so that it runs too much, add a little more sugar. To every pound of sugar, add as much cream of tartar as will lie on a twenty-five cent piece (a level teaspoonful); when this icing is prepared, spread it with a knife over the cake, and allow it to dry; you can then ornament or decorate it with icing sugar in the same manner as for a bride's cake, or use a sweet jelly, such as red currant" or "quince." 66 This water icing may also be colored a light shade of pink with "cochineal," or a light cream color with saffron. For a mauve color, add a drop of indigo blue to the pink color; but remember none of these colors must be heavy, as they are objectionable and in bad taste. Water icing is used for tops of pound, sponge, and other cakes, also for tops of jelly cakes. (See design for jelly cake, page 353.)

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is what would now be called a glacé or water icing: sugar and water only, with no egg white, spread thin and left to set to a matte shell. The whole thing hinges on adding the water a few drops at a time.

A Little History

Water icing is the plainest member of the icing family: sugar, liquid, nothing else. Nineteenth-century American books separate it firmly from royal or "ornamental" icing, which is beaten with egg white until it sets hard enough to hold piped work, and from boiled icing, which requires a sugar thermometer or a practised hand with the thread stage. Water icing needed neither. The colouring advice is a period fingerprint. Cochineal, made from dried scale insects, and saffron were among the common kitchen dyes of the era, and the insistence that the tints stay pale reflects a broader Victorian confectionery aesthetic in which strong colour on a cake read as vulgar.

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