Dish Borders of Noodle Paste, Cooked Paste, Metal, English Paste or Gum Paste, Dish Bottoms, Foundations, Supports, Triangle for Dressing Tongues, Hatelets for Hot Removes and Entrees, Fancy Frills, and Favor Frills

Several kinds of borders are used in the kitchen for the purpose of decorating dishes; those most employed are cut out with a pastry cutter from a band of noodle paste (No. 142.) To make noodle paste borders requires ingenuity, although it is not difficult. First it needs a good noodle paste of a fine color and very smooth; divide it in several parts and roll these into sausage shapes, then flatten down with a rolling pin drawing them out to a sufficient length so the band can reach all around the basin of the dish; then cut these bands into the desired width keeping them exceedingly straight; roll them over on themselves without pressing, then unroll slowly on to a paper band to design them with a cutter (Fig. 1), rolling up the cut out end as soon as finished to prevent the paste from drying; they may also be molded in molds shown in Fig. 2.

To fasten the border onto the dish, push a string of repere (No. 142) through a cornet around the basin of the dish exactly where the border is to stand upright; place the dish on top of a cool part of the range and unroll the cut-out band speedily onto the repere to fasten it on in an upright position, attach the two ends together, then bend the band outward with the fingers to give it sufficient splay, turning it around all the time until it is dry enough to stand by itself, then cover over to prevent the border from drying.

Another style of border (Fig. 3) greatly admired is made of cooked white paste (No. 131) also carved out with the pastry cutter, but under more simple conditions and is more resisting. These are very appropriate for entrees having an abundance of garnishing or a plentiful supply of gravy, thereby requiring a more resisting substance than noodle paste. This kind can be seen in the different entrees illustrated in this work, but more specially in the figure representing a chicken a la Montesquieu (Fig. 372). But a style even more used and certainly far more practical is a border made of metal (Figs. 4-5-6); they are fit to be served at a family dinner as well as at the most luxurious banquet in which the dishes are invariably handed round to the guests, for instance those viands dressed in the kitchen. These borders are movable and should be made the same size as the basin of the dish for which it is intended. These borders are of sterling silver, but they can be imitated in plated ware; let it be well understood that these borders can only be placed on metal, silver or plated dishes.

For Borders of English Paste or Gum Paste.—Roll out the paste to the desired thickness and with a fancy cutter (Fig. 6A) cut out some pieces and dry them on an even surface covered with paper; when finished place them in closed boxes in a dry place and when ready to use push a string of royal icing on the edge of the basin of the dish or platform and dress the border very evenly around.

Dish Bottoms, Foundations and Supports.—These foundations or dish bottoms serve for dressing pieces, removes or entrees, so to raise them and give them a more elegant appearance. They are to be made either of bread, rice, hominy, wood or tin. Round ones for entrees and ovals for removes or large roasts. The height for entrees is about one and a half inches, while for removes they are to be two inches; those of wood or tin are to be covered with noodle paste, those of rice or hominy are sculptured or carved with a knife.

Molded supports are to be prepared for boned turkeys, capon, pullet, etc.; these are of an oblong shape, rounded at the ends (See Fig. 9 A.); the longest ones intended for turkey's are nine and a quarter inches long by four and three quarters wide and two and a quarter high: for capons they are to be nine inches long, four and a half wide and two inches high; for tenderloins of beef, ten inches long by four wide and two and a half high; for hams, they are oval shaped, twelve by nine and three high.

Triangle for Dressing Tongues, etc.—For the largest ones have the three sides of the triangle each twelve inches long; the thickness at the base is three inches and two inches at the top; they can be made either of rice or hominy in molds having the required dimensions (Fig. 10), or else lower ones with the following proportions: length at the base, twelve inches by eight high; cut off an inch and a half from the top of the smallest and three inches from the largest; this will form a platform for placing the subjects on. They can also be made of bread spread over with green butter and then heavily strewn with very finely chopped green parsley. Let it be well understood that the socles called dish bottoms are not intended to be eaten. The socle has nothing whatever to do with the dish itself; it represents an accessory made for the purpose of raising the meats, etc., dressed over it, showing off advantageously the surrounding garnishing.

Hatelets (Skewers) for Hot Removes and Entrees.—Hatelets are employed either as an ornament or else a garnishing; they are applied to removes and entree dishes. Hatelets should only be used on ceremonious occasions, for a too prodigal use of them is apt to decrease their value. They are ornamented with unpeeled truffles, mushrooms, or cock's combs, either plain or double hatelets are also composed of Villeroi quenelles, sweetbread croquettes, or glazed crawfish; they are also made of vegetables, carrots, turnips and artichoke bottoms slightly blanched. Hatelets in tended for garnishing cold pieces are to be found in the chapter on cold dishes (No. 2526).

Fancy Frills for Large Pieces, such as Leg of Mutton, Ham, etc.—Cut a band of paper twelve inches long by three and a half wide; fold it in two on its length and again in two, this making a seven-eighths of an inch wide band, cut it finely on the folded edge, or else pass it through a cutting machine; unfold the band, turn it over so that the cutting detaches better, then twist this band in a spiral around a tin tube; fasten the end with a little mucilage, take it off the tube and place inside either a straight or turned up sconce. To make these sconces, fold a thin sheet of paper six inches square in two, then in four, then again fold in a triangle, beginning at the pointed ends, fold it once more. Cut the paper pointed shaped beginning from the center and rounding toward the bottom; unfold, and with the blade of a small knife, press down each fold so as to have them all come on one side and thus form a kind of pointed funnel. Unite the points one on to the other, closing and pressing them together; they should now be the same shape as when cut; place one in the corner of a fine towel, fold it over, press down heavily with the palm of the left hand, then pull the napkin quickly away with the right hand; by this operation, and the pressure, the paper is both folded and goffered at once; the sconce is now made and it only requires to have the bottom cut off to fit it into the frill. (See Fig. 13 and 14.)

Fancy Frills for Cutlets, Chicken Legs or Wings.—Cut some sheets of paper five inches long by three inches wide, fold in two across the length; fold once more in two; cut them by clipping in slits one thirty-second of an inch apart, or else use the machine. Fold this band, twining it in such a manner that the slits are rounded, then fasten with a little mucilage; roll the frill spiralwise on a column-tube or a piece of round wood three-eighths of an inch in diameter. Attach the end of the paper with a little mucilage and when the frill is properly fastened, cut the ends off straight so that they are all of one length (Fig. 12).

Favor Frills.—Have a small piece of rounded wood an eighth of an inch in diameter and an inch and three-quarters long, tapered on one end; roll on this spiralwise, some prepared paper a third smaller than for the other frills; fasten the two ends together on the stick and trim the paper adhering to the stick with a small ribbon fastened on in the shape of a little rosette. These favors are for chicken-breasts, lobster cutlets, etc.