A Little HistoryCharles Ranhofer wrote The Epicurean (1894) out of some thirty years as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and the book's structure shows the kitchen it came from: one plain preparation followed by dozens of numbered variations, each distinguished only by its garnish and sauce. The mignon itself is a French restaurant cut, the small tail-end medallion that cooks fast enough for à la minute service, and the pairing of tenderloin with foie gras, truffle and Madeira is the standard grand-cuisine trio of the period, the same combination that underlies the more famous Rossini garnish. Who Baillard was is not clear to a modern reader; Ranhofer names dishes after patrons, colleagues and public figures throughout, and many of those names were already obscure a generation later. The tell-tale detail is "fresh mushrooms" singled out as a distinguishing feature.