The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 1555

Sweetbreads a l'Ecarlate

Ris de Veau a l'Ecarlate

Select eight medium very white heart sweetbreads, after they are soaked and blanched, press them slightly in the press (Fig. 71), and lard afterward with fat salt pork, cook them in a pan with very little moistening, basting them frequently with their own juice, so as to glaze them a fine color. Boil a quarter of a pound of coarse macaroni in salted water, and when tender, drain and refresh it in tepid salted water; spread it out lengthwise on a towel and cut it up into a quarter of an inch lengths; as quickly as they are cut set them upright on to a buttered sheet and with a cornet filled with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89,) stuff the empty space to half its heighth, and lay small round bits of truffle cut the same size on top, then cover the whole with a buttered paper, heat the bottom of the sheet lightly, then set it into a slow oven for one minute to poach the forcemeat; detach the pieces from the pan taking them up one by one and lay them on the truffle side against the bottom and sides of a buttered plain border mold; fill in the empty space of the mold with some of the same forcemeat, covering over all with a buttered paper; poach this border for twenty-five to thirty minutes in a bain-marie, so that the forcemeat hardens to the touch. When prepared to use, unmold the border on a dish and fill the center with the sweetbreads. Have sixteen round pieces of unsmoked beef tongue, and sixteen rounds of truffles, all an inch and a quarter in diameter, by one-eighth of an inch in thickness; heat them in a little meat glaze (No. 402) and Madeira. Dress them in a ring around the sweetbreads on the crest of the border, alternating the colors; cover the bottom of the dish with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and serve some of the same sauce separately, reduced with a puree of tomatoes (No. 730), butter, grated parmesan, and minced mushrooms.