The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 2649

Cauliflower, Mayonnaise Salad

Salade de Choux-fleurs, Mayonnaise

Lay some fine, white, cooked, cold and seasoned cauliflower in a spherical-shaped mold; unmold it over a salad bowl, and cover it entirely with a highly seasoned mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). Garnish it around with slices of pickled beetroot and dredge over some fine herbs and capers.

For the Modern Kitchen

A composed salad rather than a tossed one: the whole point is that the cauliflower holds a dome shape when unmolded, so texture and drainage matter more than anything else here.

A Little History

Charles Ranhofer's The Epicurean (1894) records the kitchen of Delmonico's in New York, and this entry shows the house style plainly: a plain boiled vegetable is given architecture. Molding cold cooked vegetables into domes, then masking them with mayonnaise and ringing them with a contrasting garnish, was standard practice in the grand nineteenth-century French service, where a salad arrived at table as a built object rather than a bowl of leaves. The cross-reference to sauce No. 606 is typical of the book, which is organized as a working reference for professional cooks who already knew the base preparations by number.