A Little HistoryCharles Ranhofer's The Epicurean (1894) records the kitchen of Delmonico's in New York, and this entry shows the house style plainly: a plain boiled vegetable is given architecture. Molding cold cooked vegetables into domes, then masking them with mayonnaise and ringing them with a contrasting garnish, was standard practice in the grand nineteenth-century French service, where a salad arrived at table as a built object rather than a bowl of leaves. The cross-reference to sauce No. 606 is typical of the book, which is organized as a working reference for professional cooks who already knew the base preparations by number.