A Little HistoryRanhofer published The Epicurean in 1894 after some thirty years running the kitchen at Delmonico's in New York, and this sorbet belongs to the most theatrical corner of that book: the mid-meal ice, served between the entrees and the roast to reset the palate, dressed up as a piece of tableside spectacle. Mephisto is Mephistopheles, and Gounod's Faust was among the most performed operas in New York in those decades, so the allusion is a likely one, though Ranhofer says nothing about his source; a dark chocolate ice with a spirituous bite would have been an easy joke, and the gum-paste dice box suits a figure who deals in wagers and pacts. Ranhofer's neighbouring numbers include a Paradise Sherbet, so the pairing appears deliberate. The use of roasted cocoa beans rather than powder is worth noting: Dutched cocoa powder existed by then, and infusing nibs in syrup gives a different, lighter chocolate flavour of the sort modern pastry cooks have returned to.