A Little HistoryThis comes from the invalid cookery chapter of Charles Ranhofer's The Epicurean (1894), the enormous compendium written by the chef of Delmonico's in New York. Nineteenth-century medical opinion held that a convalescent could absorb the "essence" of meat when solid food was impossible, so clear broths, beef teas and barley waters occupied a formal place in both cookbooks and nursing manuals — the assumption, later shown to be mistaken, being that a cup of broth carried real nourishment rather than mostly water, gelatin and salt. The choice of lettuce and chervil instead of the standard aromatic vegetables may belong to the same reasoning: onion and garlic were often described as stimulating and hard to digest, while lettuce had a long reputation as cooling and soothing. Chervil is one of the herbs of the French fines herbes; it appears more readily in cookbooks of Ranhofer's day than in modern ones, and it wilts within a day or two of cutting, which does not suit long-distance shipping.