A Little HistoryCharles Ranhofer spent more than thirty years as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and The Epicurean (1894) is essentially his kitchen's working manual, organised so that a dozen elaborate dishes can call back to one numbered base preparation like this. Farce is simply the French for a pounded, bound stuffing — the same word behind English "forcemeat" — and the panada-and-egg method he uses here is the classical way of giving a delicate meat enough body to hold its shape when poached as a quenelle. Foie gras itself reached American luxury kitchens largely as an imported product from Strasbourg and the southwest of France, where the fattening of geese is generally traced back to Roman and, before that, Egyptian practice. That a book aimed at professional cooks lists a foie gras forcemeat among its elementary methods, alongside fish and game farces, says a good deal about the register at which Delmonico's operated.