Ranhofer writes in shorthand for a professional brigade: almost every element here is a cross-reference to another number in the book. Read it as an assembly note rather than a standalone recipe, and gather the components first.
- What the numbers stand forNo. 75 is the book's cream forcemeat, a pounded raw-poultry and cream mixture of the mousseline type; No. 723 is soubise, an onion puree bound in the usual way with rice or bechamel; No. 433 is bearnaise. No. 920 supplies the finishing instructions, so the dish cannot be executed faithfully without that page in front of you.
- Palmette moldsSmall tinned molds cut in the shape of a palm leaf, part of the nineteenth-century garnish kit and effectively unobtainable now. Small oval or boat-shaped molds, barquette tins, or buttered ramekins give the same result in a different silhouette.
- ProportionsA quarter of the forcemeat's volume in soubise is a lot of moisture for a mousseline to carry. Make the soubise thick and dry it out over heat before folding it in, or the mixture will not set when poached.
- Poaching, not boilingMousseline forcemeats want a buttered mold set in a water bath held well below the boil; a rolling boil bursts the emulsion and the palmettes turn spongy and weep butter. In a modern kitchen a bath around 170F and roughly 15-20 minutes for a small 2 oz mold, until the center is just firm to a fingertip, is a reasonable starting point.
- TurkeyUse raw breast, well chilled, with all sinew removed. Cooked turkey will not bind. Weigh the trimmed meat before pounding, since the egg white and cream are proportional to it.
- Foie grasThe slices go in the center as a surprise, so they should be cold and firm when the mold is filled and the mixture packed around them. A whole-lobe terrine slices better than a mousse, which will melt into the forcemeat.
- BearnaiseHold it warm but well short of simmering, around 130-140F; too hot and the yolks curdle, too cool and it dulls and sets. Serve it in a sauceboat as directed rather than napping the palmettes, which are meant to be seen.
- Yield and serviceA hot side dish in Ranhofer's structure, so a small portion per person alongside other courses rather than a plated main. By rough arithmetic, a pound of trimmed turkey with its cream and soubise would fill somewhere in the region of a dozen 2 oz molds.
The Epicurean (1894) was Charles Ranhofer's record of thirty-odd years as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and it is written for cooks who already know the repertoire; a page like this one is closer to a filing system than a recipe. Palmettes, named for the stylized palm-leaf shape of the mold, belong to the elaborate world of the releve and the hot side dish, where forcemeats were pressed into decorative tins so that a plate could carry the same silhouette repeated down its length. Sauce bearnaise is generally traced to the Pavillon Henri IV at Saint-Germain-en-Laye in the 1830s and named for Henri IV's native Bearn rather than for anything in the sauce; by Ranhofer's day it was standard American hotel practice. Turkey appears here as one element among several, alongside the onion puree, the foie gras and the sauce.