The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 933

Palmettes of Turkey a la Bearnaise

Palmettes de Dinde a la Bearnaise

Mix with a cream and turkey forcemeat (No.75), a quarter of its quantity of soubise (No.723), fill the palmette molds with this, laying slices of foies-gras in the center, poach, and finish them exactly the same as described in No.920, serve separately a bearnaise sauce (No.433).

For the Modern Kitchen

Ranhofer writes in shorthand for a professional brigade: almost every element here is a cross-reference to another number in the book. Read it as an assembly note rather than a standalone recipe, and gather the components first.

A Little History

The Epicurean (1894) was Charles Ranhofer's record of thirty-odd years as chef at Delmonico's in New York, and it is written for cooks who already know the repertoire; a page like this one is closer to a filing system than a recipe. Palmettes, named for the stylized palm-leaf shape of the mold, belong to the elaborate world of the releve and the hot side dish, where forcemeats were pressed into decorative tins so that a plate could carry the same silhouette repeated down its length. Sauce bearnaise is generally traced to the Pavillon Henri IV at Saint-Germain-en-Laye in the 1830s and named for Henri IV's native Bearn rather than for anything in the sauce; by Ranhofer's day it was standard American hotel practice. Turkey appears here as one element among several, alongside the onion puree, the foie gras and the sauce.