The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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To Color Cordials

through, fill up the filter again so as to keep it full. When the liquid runs clear and limpid let it all run through, and commence filtering the cordial, being careful to keep the filter always full. If the liquor does not run clear, add about two ounces of granulated animal charcoal (sifted and fanned from the dust), to each filter. The charcoal should be washed with a little muriatic acid before being used.

To Color Cordials.

Blue, use indigo dissolved in sulphuric acid :

Green, mix the above solution with infusion of saffron : Yellow, use infusion of saffron :

Red, rose, or different shades of red, by alcoholic infusion of cochineal. Take 1 lb. cochineal, „ Cochineal.

1/2 " Roche alum.

Reduce them both to powder in a mortar, and pour on them 16 lbs. of boiling water. The result is a red of greater or less strength according to the amount of cochineal used.

Wild Red Poppy.

This is a very fine color.

Take two pounds of the leaves, bruise them in a mortar; then pour over them one gallon of boiling water, adding one drachm of tartaric acid to facilitate and quicken the extraction of the color.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a colourist's page from a nineteenth-century liquor manufacturer's manual, and several of its ingredients are mineral acids and industrial dyes rather than foodstuffs. It is readable as a document of the trade, not as a working procedure.

A Little History

Manuals like this one were written for the compounder — the tradesman who bought neutral spirit by the barrel and turned it into a shopful of branded cordials with essences, syrups and dyes. Colour did the heavy lifting: a curaçao had to look orange, a crème de menthe green, a maraschino water-white, and the customer judged the bottle before the glass. Cochineal, imported from Mexico and later the Canaries, was the great red of the nineteenth century and remains in use as carmine; saffron and corn-poppy petals were the traditional yellows and reds of European kitchens long before they reached the distiller. The indigo-and-sulphuric-acid blue belongs to a different world entirely — it came into the liquor trade straight from the textile dyehouse, where sulphonated indigo had been standard since the 1740s. That borrowing is the real lesson of the page: before food-additive law, the dyer's shelf and the distiller's shelf were the same shelf, and adulteration scandals through the 1850s and 1870s turned on exactly that overlap.

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