The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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Filter-Bags for Cordials

Fining with Eggs.

Take the white of four eggs, beat them to a stiff froth, add a little alcohol, amd mix it gradually with 20 gallons of cordial, stirring all the while, and it will soon clarify the liquor.

Fining with Potash.

Two ounces of carbonate of potash (salts of tartar) dissolved in a quart of water, is sufficient to settle 20 gallons of cordial; add and stir as directed above.

Fining with Alum.

Six drachms of powdered calcinated alum, dissolved in alcohol, is sufficient to clarify 20 gallons of cordial, add as directed above.

Filter Bags for Cordials. (See Filters and Filtration, page 24.) The filter bags used for rendering cordials transparent are made of flannel, felt, Canton flannel, and other materials according to the thickness or density of the liquor, and are generally of a conical shape. In order to perform the operation of filtering cordials thoroughly, it is necessary that there should be placed inside of each bag one or two sheets of filtering paper prepared as follows: Rub each sheet of paper until it becomes soft and flimsy like a piece of cloth, then tear it in small pieces and place it in a pail, pour over it a little boiling water, and rub and beat it up until it becomes a soft pulp, afterwards add more water, and continue the same as if you were beating up eggs. When the pulp assumes the appearance of a fine paste, fill up the pail with water and throw the contents into the filter; as soon as the water has run

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a clarifying and filtering procedure rather than a formula for a drink, but it comes with real quantities and a fixed sequence. The batch size assumed throughout is 20 gallons.

A Little History

Manuals like this one were written for the compounder rather than the distiller: a tradesman who bought neutral spirit, essences, sugar and colouring and assembled cordials to order in a back room. In that trade brilliance mattered, because a cloudy bottle read as adulterated, and a great deal of the book is given over to fining, filtration and colour. The techniques overlap with winemaking, where egg-white fining goes back centuries and is still used on red wine in Bordeaux; isinglass and gelatin were common to both cellar and cordial bench. What dates the page most clearly is the alum, a substance that appears in 19th-century recipe books as freely for pickles and bread as for clarifying liquor, and which fell out of use as a bread and liquor additive over the following hundred years.

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