The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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To Make Sherry Wine

To make Muscat Wine. (BY MIXING.) RECIPE No. 3.

To 35 gals. Muscat wine, add : 18 66 honey, 20 “ spirit, 40 o. p. 100 “ distilled water.

Filter.

To make Sweet Wine.

RECIPE No. 4.

To 16 barrels whiskey, add : 34 66 water, 2,000 lbs. sugar, 4 66 coriander seed, infused in half gallon spirit, 95 per cent, 1/2 gal. sulphuric acid.

The latter ingredient is added to clarify the wine.

To make Sherry Wine. (BY MIXING.) RECIPE No. 5.

To 70 gals. Sherry wine, add : 100 lbs. sugar, 40 gals. spirit, 40 o. p., 200 66 water.

Agitate or stir up the above compound for several days.

Neroly is a good flavor for Sherry wine; one drachm dissolved in one pint spirit, 95 per cent, is sufficient for 300 gallons. An infusion of dried peaches is also a good flavor. Infuse one gallon peaches in two gallons alcohol, 95 per cent, as long as you can get any flavor from the fruit. The essence of Sherry wine is also a very desirable flavor, and may be purchased from any respectable essence dealer.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is not a winemaking recipe in any modern sense. It is a nineteenth-century trade formula for stretching and doctoring bulk wine, and several of its elements put it outside what can safely or legally be made today.

A Little History

Books like this one belonged to a specific and now-vanished trade: the wine and liquor "manufacturer" who bought cheap bulk spirit and thin wine and compounded them into something that could be sold under a prestigious name. Sherry, muscat and port were the favoured targets because their sweetness, strength and aromatic character could be approximated with sugar, overproof spirit, water and a few drops of essence — and because genuine imports were expensive. The casual reference to buying "the essence of Sherry wine" from "any respectable essence dealer" shows how organised the supply chain was. This kind of publishing flourished in the decades before the pure food and drink laws of the early twentieth century, in Britain and the United States alike, and it is precisely the practices catalogued here that those laws were written to stop. The book is worth reading as evidence of what was in the bottle before regulation, not as a set of instructions.

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