The Home Cook Book

The ladies of 1870s Chicago pooled their recipes and signed every one — corned beef from Mrs. Beaty, lemon pie from Mrs. Saulter.

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Oatmeal Gruel

Take two tablespoons of oatmeal, pour on it a pint of cold water; let it stand half a day, then pour it through a sieve and boil well one-quarter of an hour, stirring all the time; season according to taste. The coarse meal to be rejected. Good for invalids or children.

For the Modern Kitchen

A thin invalid drink rather than a porridge: the soaking draws starch out of the meal, the meal itself is discarded, and what you boil is the cloudy water. Worth knowing before you wonder where the oats went.

A Little History

Gruel is the ancestor of the whole English sickroom diet: a starch liquor, easily swallowed and easily digested, standing in for food when a patient could manage nothing solid. Oatmeal was the cheap staple grain of Scotland and northern England, and thin oat gruel travelled with it into nineteenth-century North American household manuals, where it sat alongside barley water, beef tea and arrowroot in the chapters written for invalids and infants. The instruction to reject the meal is consistent with the era's medical advice that bran and coarse particles irritated a weak stomach — nutritionally backwards by modern lights. Its appearance in a community cookbook of this kind is a reminder that these books were expected to cover nursing as well as dinner, illness being managed largely at home rather than in hospital.

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