The Home Cook Book

The ladies of 1870s Chicago pooled their recipes and signed every one — corned beef from Mrs. Beaty, lemon pie from Mrs. Saulter.

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Receipt for Cold

Mrs. J. B. Riley.

One pound of liverwort put into four quarts of water and boiled down to one quart; add, while warm, a quarter pound of ball liquorice and a quarter pound of loaf sugar; when cool add a half pint of gin. Dose-half a large wineglass half an hour before each meal.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a dosed household medicine rather than a beverage, and several things in it are out of range for a modern kitchen. The notes below explain the units and why the preparation should be left on the page.

A Little History

Compiled charity cookbooks of the 1870s, of which The Home Cook Book (Toronto, 1877) is a Canadian landmark, gathered household medicine alongside pies and pickles because the two came out of the same cupboard and the same contributor's handwriting; Mrs. J. B. Riley's cold syrup sits in the book on exactly the same footing as her neighbours' cakes. Liverwort's reputation owed something to the old doctrine of signatures, its three-lobed liver-shaped leaves being taken as a sign of its use, and by the nineteenth century it had settled into North American domestic practice as a mild cough and "consumption" herb, often boiled down with liquorice and sugar into a thick syrup. The half pint of gin is a common finishing touch of the period: spirits both carried the plant extractives and were themselves considered part of the treatment, which is one reason a bottle kept for medicinal purposes could be found even in temperance-minded households. Receipts like this one became rarer in cookbooks over the following decades as food and drug regulation and the growth of commercial pharmacy moved such preparations out of the kitchen.

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