Broiled Devilled Pig's Feet

The recipe assumes two things the original never states: that the feet arrive already long-simmered, and that the cook knows what devilled butter is. Both need filling in.

• "Cooked" means hours, not minutesPig's feet must be simmered until the connective tissue is tender and gelatinous before they go anywhere near a broiler — typically 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours in salted water with an onion, a bay leaf and a few peppercorns. Broiling only browns and crisps; it will not cook a raw foot through.
• Devilled butterA common mixture is softened butter worked with mustard, cayenne, a little Worcestershire and lemon juice — say 4 tablespoons butter to 2 teaspoons mustard and a good pinch of cayenne for three feet. Spread it while the feet are still warm so it clings before crumbing.
• SaltspoonA saltspoon is about 1/4 teaspoon. The half teaspoon of salt and quarter teaspoon of white pepper season three split feet, on top of whatever salt went into the simmering water.
• Double broilerThis is a hinged wire grill basket that clamps the food between two grids so it can be turned over a coal fire in one motion. Under a modern overhead broiler, set the feet cut side up on a rack over a sheet pan and turn them once with tongs.
• Heat and timeFive minutes a side suits a hot fire or a broiler element at full heat with the pan 4 to 5 inches below it. Watch the crumbs rather than the clock — butter and breadcrumbs go from golden to black quickly, and the meat beneath is already cooked.
• Split them before simmeringHalving a boiled foot lengthwise is awkward and it tends to fall apart. Ask the butcher to split them raw, or split them before they go into the pot, and they will hold their shape for the broiler.
• YieldThree feet split gives six halves — a first course for six, or a substantial plate for three. Mustard, cornichons and something sharp cut the richness; a plain green salad suits it.