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Over three thousand recipes from the man who cooked at Delmonico's — French sauces, Italian pastas, Indian curries and American pies, the whole eating world of 1906 in one volume.

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Compote of Pears

Open a pint can of preserved pears. Arrange them on a compotier. Pour the syrup into a small saucepan with a teaspoon vanilla essence, one ounce sugar and half a cinnamon stick; let boil for ten minutes, remove the cinnamon, pour the syrup over the pears and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A five-minute dessert built on a can of pears, of the sort that filled the back pages of pre-war cookbooks. The only real technique is the syrup reduction, and the one change worth making is when the vanilla goes in.

A Little History

Compote in French cookery means fruit cooked or served in sugar syrup, a preparation that predates canning by centuries and was originally a way of holding fruit past its season. What dates this version is that the preserving has already been done by someone else: the recipe begins with opening a tin. Commercial fruit canning expanded enormously in the late nineteenth century, and pears, along with peaches and pineapple, were among the fruits that took well to it. Cookbooks of this era, this one included, quietly absorbed the tin into formal dessert service, and the cook's contribution shrank to flavouring and reheating the syrup so the finished plate still read as a proper compote.

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