Home › The World's Kitchen › Gosling Hash En Bordure
Gosling Hash En Bordure
Detach all the meat from the gosling left over from yesterday and cut it into small dice pieces. Peel and core two green, good-sized apples, cut them in pieces same size as the meat, and place both in a saucepan with half pint white broth and a gill of demi-glace. Season with half teaspoon salt, a saltspoon each cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg; place on the fire and cook for fifteen minutes, occasionally mixing meanwhile. Finely chop together two branches chervil and the leaves from a branch of tarragon and add to the hash; lightly mix and remove to the table.
Prepare a brioche potato preparation. Slide a dentilated fancy tube to the bottom of a pastry bag; drop the potatoes into the bag and make a nice border around the edge of a baking dish by pressing the puree down with the hands. Place the hash in the centre of the dish, sprinkle two tablespoons of fresh bread crumbs over, place half an ounce butter in little bits over the hash and set in the oven to bake for fifteen minutes. Remove and serve.
A leftover-goose dish built on classic French pantry stock: broth, demi-glace, and a piped potato border. Nothing here is difficult, but three of the ingredients are written in a professional kitchen's shorthand.
- GoslingA young goose, usually under six months or so, with paler and more tender flesh than a mature bird. Roast duck or roast chicken leftovers stand in without changing the method; the recipe gives no weight of meat and no number of servings.
- A gillHalf a cup, 4 fl oz. The half pint of broth is 8 fl oz, so the sauce is two parts broth to one part demi-glace.
- White broth and demi-glaceWhite broth is unbrowned poultry or veal stock. Demi-glace is brown stock reduced with espagnole to a syrupy, coating consistency; a good reduced brown chicken or veal stock, or a tub of concentrated demi-glace let down slightly, does the work. Without it the hash will be thin and taste of nothing but apple.
- A saltspoonA quarter teaspoon. A quarter teaspoon of cayenne in a dish this size is assertive by modern palates; start with an eighth and adjust.
- Brioche potato preparationA separate preparation given elsewhere in the book. From the way it is piped it must be a stiff duchesse-style puree of riced potato bound with butter and egg, firm enough to hold a piped shape; if it is not stiff the border slumps in the oven.
- Dentilated fancy tubeA toothed star tip. Pipe the border onto the rim of a shallow ovenproof dish; the instruction to press the puree down with the hands probably means compacting it in the bag rather than flattening the piped border, though the wording is ambiguous.
- Oven heatNo temperature is given. A moderately hot oven, in the region of 400F, will brown the crumbs and set the potato edge in fifteen minutes; the filling is only being reheated, so add heat from above at the end if it needs more colour.
Filippini spent decades in the kitchens of Delmonico's in New York, and this recipe opens by assuming a roast gosling was served yesterday. En bordure served within a border was a standard nineteenth-century French presentation, the piped potato ring doing the job that a pastry case or a rice ring did elsewhere, giving a reheated hash the outline of a composed dish. The pairing of goose with tart green apple is long established across northern Europe, where the fruit's acidity is generally credited with cutting the bird's fat; here it survives into a hash, cut to the same dice as the meat so the two read as one thing rather than as meat with sauce.