The Italian Cook Book

Practical recipes of the Italian cuisine, compiled for American kitchens in 1919 — every dish carrying its Italian name, from Brodo to Zabaione.

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Hard Black-Berry Syrup

(Sciroppo di amarena) Use hard but ripe black berries. They must be of the sour kind but, as said, they must not be unripe. Remove the stems and put the berries into a vase with a good piece of whole cinnamon.

The fermentation will happen after 48 hours and as soon as the berries begin to rise, stir them from time to time. Then press them to extract the juice, with a pressing machine if you have one, or with your hands, squeezing them a few at a time in cheese cloth. When the liquid has rested for a while, filter it until it becomes quite clear. When it has been depurated, put it on the fire in the following proportion and with the piece of cinnamon that was already immersed in the cherries: Twelve pounds of liquid to sixteen pounds of sugar and two ounces of citric acid, or three parts of liquid to four of sugar and the citric acid as in the above proportion.

Before putting in the sugar and the citric acid wait until the liquid is quite hot, just before boiling. Then stir continually. The boiling must be brief, four or five minutes are sufficient to incorporate the sugar in the liquid. When removing the syrup from the fire, put it in an earthen vase and bottle when quite cold.

Cork the bottles well and keep in a cool place.

For the Modern Kitchen

The English title is a translation slip: amarena is the sour cherry, not the blackberry. Everything else in the method — the short ferment, the pressing, the very brief boil — works as written, provided you treat the finished syrup as a refrigerator product rather than a shelf-stable preserve.

A Little History

Sciroppo di amarena belongs to a long Italian tradition of bottling summer fruit as a sweet concentrate to be diluted with cold water. The amarena or sour cherry has long been the preferred fruit for these syrups, its acidity working alongside the sugar that does most of the preserving; the citric acid here reinforces what the fruit already supplies. A short ferment before pressing belongs to older fruit-syrup practice — wild yeasts loosen the pulp so the press yields more — and it is largely absent from later syrup recipes.

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