The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

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Stuffed Cabbage

1 onion cup bread crumbs cup milk 1-21-2 1 egg Seasoning 1 green pepper Select solid cabbage, not too large, remove outside leaves, cut out stalk end, leaving a hollow shell. Chop uncooked beef, with bacon and onion. Add crumbs soaked in milk, beaten egg, salt and pepper. Shape mixture into balls or cakes, arrange in cabbage. Arrange strips of sweet pepper on top of cabbage, tie in cheese-cloth, then steam or boil until tender. Serve with tomato sauce. 1½ cups ground raw carrots 1 cup boiled rice 1 cup ground peanuts

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list has come through the scanner badly damaged, and the last line belongs to something else entirely. What survives is a clear method: a hollowed cabbage packed with raw meatballs, wrapped and boiled, served with tomato sauce.

A Little History

Stuffed cabbage in some form runs through most of central and eastern Europe, and it appears in American community and corporate cookbooks around the turn of the twentieth century. What is unusual here is the whole-head treatment: the more familiar immigrant version rolls individual leaves around meat and rice, while this one keeps the cabbage intact as a container, ties it in cloth and boils it like a pudding, a method also long documented in French cookery, though nothing on the page indicates a lineage. The Metropolitan Life Insurance Company distributed cook books of this kind free to policyholders as part of a broader public-health effort, which may have something to do with the tone of the whole section: cheap vegetables, stretched meat, a panade of bread and milk to make a pound go further, and the meatless carrot-rice-peanut filling that has wandered into the bottom of this page from whatever entry sat beside it.

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