The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods

Ida Bailey Allen tells the story of American corn — Plymouth breakfasts to the Great War — and hangs a day's four meals on it, for the company that made Karo and Mazola.

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Chop Suey

1½ pounds round of beef or 5 tablespoons Mazola lean fresh pork 1½ tablespoons Argo or Kingsford's Cornstarch 2 cups coarsely diced celery 3 medium sized onions, sliced 1 tablespoon Karo, Blue Label 1 pint bean sprouts, optional (these may be purchased canned) Salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce to taste Boiled rice Cut the meat in small cubes, dust with salt, pepper and the cornstarch and brown in the Mazola. Add the celery, onions, bean sprouts and Karo and simmer a few minutes. Half cover with boiling water and simmer until the meat is tender, about an hour. Season to taste with the Worcestershire sauce. Serve with the boiled rice which has been pressed into custard cups to shape, then turned out. Soy sauce may be used instead of the Worcestershire. It can be obtained at Chinese restaurants. F

For the Modern Kitchen

A corn-products advertising recipe rather than a Chinese one, and the ingredient list has been mangled by the original two-column typesetting. Read it as 1½ lb round of beef or lean fresh pork, 5 tablespoons Mazola, and 1½ tablespoons cornstarch.

A Little History

This comes from one of the promotional cookbooks issued by the makers of Mazola, Argo cornstarch and Karo syrup, which is why several of the ingredients carry brand names and why corn syrup turns up in a savory braise at all — such books existed to find new uses for the sponsor's products. Chop suey itself is generally traced to Chinese-American cooks in the late nineteenth century, and by the 1920s it had become the American public's shorthand for Chinese food, popular enough to be worth a page in a book aimed at home cooks who had eaten it in a restaurant but never made it. The tell-tale details are the Worcestershire sauce standing in for soy and the assumption that soy had to be sourced from a Chinese restaurant: this is a dish being translated for a pantry that had no Asian ingredients in it, served in a neat molded dome to look like company food.

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