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L'Almanach Des Gourmands: Rocher
Unfortunately, no menus of the Jury dégustateur have been preserved, though one is presented of the celebrated restaurant, the Rocher de Cancale-a dinner of twenty-four covers, served November 28, 1809, at a cost of one thousand francs. Considering the elaborateness of the bill of fare, the price was assuredly extremely moderate, including, as it did, four soups, four relevés, twelve entrées, four large pieces, four roasts, and eight entremets, all served in the highest style of the art. In many of the best Parisian restaurants to-day no figures are attached to the carte, so that one may dine without disturbing his digestion by thinking of the expense. The awakening comes later, with the addition, when, if one be an epicure with a partiality for rare vintages, he will be apt to recall Béranger's "Voyage au Pays de Cocagne" and its dénouement: 66 “.
Mais qui vient détruire Ce rêve enchanteur?
Amis, j'en ai honte, C'est quelqu'un qui monte Apporter le compte Du restaurateur." (But who would dispel This dream all-divine?
Friends, to my shame, "T is the restaurant's claim- The bill of the entrées And score of the wine.) The menu of the dinner at the Rocher will prove attractive reading-in marked contrast to the average bill of fare, which is so often made up for the eye and is generally without originality or distinction. What an embarrassment of riches in the entrées! how imposing the large pieces! what a pageant of delectable entremets! How majestically the bisque of crabs leads off the fête, and pike and turbot proudly stem the tide! The comparative absence of vegetables need not be criticised, as these naturally figure as garnishes of several of the dishes. The asparagus, too, would take the place of a salad which is not included; and with so varied a programme oysters may well have been dispensed with for lack of sufficient space. That each individual dish was a triumph we may rest assured, or some word of depreciation for future guidance would certainly have appeared in the "Almanach." Menu de 24 Couverts, pour le Jeudi 28 Novembre, 1809.
Une bisque d'écrevisses.
Un potage à la Reine au lait d'amandes, avec biscotes.
Un brochet à la Chambord.
Une dinde aux truffes.