The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Apple Dumplings

5 apples. 4 tablespoonfuls Crisco 2 cupfuls flour 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder ½ teaspoonful salt 3/4 cupful milk Sugar

For the Modern Kitchen

What survives here is the dumpling pastry: a plain baking-powder biscuit dough, which was the standard American wrapper for baked apple dumplings before short pastry took over. A few things in the list need translating before you scale or substitute.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to explain a genuinely unfamiliar product: a solid, shelf-stable cooking fat made from hydrogenated cottonseed oil, offered as a replacement for lard and butter in a kitchen that had used animal fat for everything. The recipes in it are deliberately ordinary American home cooking, chosen so a cook could see the new shortening doing work she already knew how to judge. Apple dumplings were an obvious choice: they were long-established in Anglo-American households, cheap, and built on exactly the kind of quick baking-powder dough that lives or dies on the behaviour of its fat. Fruit wrapped in dough and baked or boiled is much older than the pamphlet, and the American baked version is generally traced to Pennsylvania and the mid-Atlantic states, where apple orchards and a strong dumpling tradition met.

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