The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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May 29

Menu: Raw Clams; Chicken Pie; or; Stuffed Potatoes Broiled Tomatoes; Pepper and Cucumber Salad; spoon.; Cheese Fingers; Pineapple Jelly; Coffee Stuffed Potatoes-Bake 7 good-sized potatoes. When done, cut off a lengthwise slice; scoop out potato with a spoon. Mash; add 1 tablespoon Crisco, salt and pepper to taste, 1/2 cup milk, and 2 egg whites beaten stiff. Refill skins with this mixture. Pile lightly, do not smooth, bake until potatoes are puffed and brown. Potatoes Tomatoes Radish and Watercress Salad Vanilla Pudding, Jam Sauce Coffee Beef Loaf-Mix together 3 pounds chopped raw beef, 14 pound of minced salt pork, 1 cup cracker dust, 2 teaspoons, each, of salt and pepper, and moisten all with 2 beaten eggs, teaspoonful onion juice, and teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Work in tablespoons melted Crisco, and pack in a Criscoed mold. Cover; set in a roasting pan of boiling water, and cook in a steady oven for 2 hours. Serve with brown sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

A steamed-then-baked meatloaf from the Crisco calendar, cooked in a covered mold set in a water bath. The water bath is the point: it keeps a very lean mixture from drying out over two hours.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was a promotional cookbook for Procter & Gamble's hydrogenated cottonseed shortening, launched in 1911 as a substitute for lard and butter, and its recipes work hard to put Crisco somewhere in every dish -- here as a shortening worked into the meat and as a coating for the mold, jobs that had always belonged to lard or drippings. The "Calendar of Dinners" -- which circulated as a separate Crisco publication as well as alongside the Story of Crisco material -- assigned a menu to each day of the year, and this loaf is dated June 1, a dish substantial enough for a family table but happy served cold as the weather warmed. Steaming a meat loaf in a covered mold set in water, rather than roasting it dry, is what kept a mixture of lean beef and cracker crumbs from setting up hard.

For the Modern Kitchen

A steamed-then-baked meatloaf from the Crisco calendar, cooked in a covered mold set in a water bath. The water bath is the point: it keeps a very lean mixture from drying out over two hours.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was a promotional cookbook for Procter & Gamble's hydrogenated cottonseed shortening, launched in 1911 as a substitute for lard and butter, and its recipes work hard to put Crisco somewhere in every dish -- here as a shortening worked into the meat and as a coating for the mold, jobs that had always belonged to lard or drippings. The "Calendar of Dinners" -- which circulated as a separate Crisco publication as well as alongside the Story of Crisco material -- assigned a menu to each day of the year, and this loaf is dated June 1, a dish substantial enough for a family table but happy served cold as the weather warmed. Steaming a meat loaf in a covered mold set in water, rather than roasting it dry, is what kept a mixture of lean beef and cracker crumbs from setting up hard.

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