The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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November 2

Menu: Baked Rolled Fillets of Fish, Bechamel; Sauce; Cucumber Salad Yeast Rolls; Roast Guinea Chickens, Guava Jelly; Rice Croquettes Scalloped Egg Plant; Pear and Celery Salad; Lemon Sherbet; Coffee; Sponge Cake; a Roast Guinea Chickens-Put 2 tablespoons Crisco in each of the birds, this prevents them getting dry. Slit 2 slices bacon once or twice then tie over breasts of birds, which should be trussed for roasting. Wrap them in Criscoed paper and bake in quick oven for 30 minutes, baste well and frequently; for the last 8 minutes remove paper and bacon; sprinkle with a little flour, salt and pepper, baste well, and let brown. Serve on hot dish, garnished with rolls of bacon. Hand with it gravy, bread sauce, and guava jelly.

For the Modern Kitchen

A dated entry from the book's dinner calendar, printed here under a mismatched heading. It is a straightforward roast of young guinea fowl, and the only real variables are bird size and oven heat.

A Little History

The Crisco "Calendar of Dinners" material was published by Procter & Gamble in the early 1910s, shortly after Crisco itself went on sale, and its recipe collection functions as an extended demonstration that the new shortening could do anything butter or lard did. The entries are arranged day by day, which is why this one carries the date November 3, deep in game season. Guinea fowl are native to West Africa and reached American farmyards by way of the colonial trade; they were kept as much for their noisy vigilance as for the table, and their dark, lean meat is often treated more like game than like chicken, hence the bacon barding, the bread sauce and the sweet jelly alongside. Guava jelly stands in here for the usual currant.

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