The Up-to-Date Sandwich Book

Four hundred ways to make a sandwich, catalogued in 1909 — from oyster and nasturtium to the After the Ball.

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Fish Sandwich

To cold cooked fish, minced fine, add a little chopped pickle. Season with pepper and salt. Place between two slices of buttered white bread.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A leftovers formula rather than a fixed recipe, and it works with almost any cooked fish you already have. The only real decisions are moisture and cut.

A Little History

Sandwich books proliferated in the United States between about 1900 and 1920, when afternoon teas, card parties and packed lunches created steady demand for small, cold, portable food. A great many of their entries are exactly this: a way to use up what was left from the previous day's dinner, dressed with something sharp to wake it up. The pairing of cooked fish with chopped pickle is the same logic behind tartar sauce, acid and crunch against soft, mild flesh, and it survives today in the tuna salad sandwich, which differs mainly in leaning on mayonnaise rather than butter for its binding.

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