The Up-to-Date Sandwich Book

Four hundred ways to make a sandwich, catalogued in 1909 — from oyster and nasturtium to the After the Ball.

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Fudge Sandwich

Melt on tin in oven, fudge or fresh chocolate creams until soft enough to be spread; spread wafer crackers with this filling, tie each two with white baby ribbon. Serve with lemonade.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient confection from the era when "sandwich" covered anything served between two flat things, including dessert. The only real technique here is controlling the heat so the fudge softens rather than seizes or scorching.

A Little History

Eva Greene Fuller's sandwich book belongs to a brief American vogue, often placed in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the sandwich escaped the lunch pail and became a fixture of the tea table, the card party and the church social. Under that pressure the word stretched: anything spread between two thin flat surfaces qualified, including these dessert assemblies of candy between crackers. The white baby ribbon is the tell. This is not food meant to satisfy hunger but a favour to be handed round, and the pairing with lemonade places it firmly at an afternoon gathering rather than a meal. Chocolate creams and fudge were themselves relatively new as everyday sweets, their spread generally traced to the growing availability of refined sugar and commercial chocolate.

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