The Twentieth Century Home Cook Book

Practical recipes and household wisdom from 1906 — when the icebox was high technology and dinner had nine courses.

HomePoultry › Another Mode to Fricassee Chicken

Another Mode to Fricassee Chicken

Cut the joints separate. Stew in water enough to cover until the meat is tender. Mix with a cup of milk, a heaping teaspoonful of flour, and let boil up once. Season with salt and pepper, and place on a platter. If the flavor is liked, a little salt pork may be added, cut in thin slices, a few minutes before serving. For a brown fricassee pour off the larger part of liquor before the chicken is done, adding a piece of butter, and letting the chicken fry brown in the pot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain white fricassee with a brown variation tucked into the last sentence. The instructions assume a cook who already knows what a fricassee looks like, so the gaps are worth filling.

A Little History

Fricassee is one of the oldest French terms in the English kitchen, in print here since the sixteenth century, and it describes a method rather than a dish: meat cut up, cooked in liquid, and served in a sauce made from that liquid. The white and brown division this recipe sets out is the classic one, and by 1900 the white version was well established in American cooking, thickened with milk and flour rather than the egg-and-cream liaison of French practice. The title alone shows this is not the book's only fricassee, a sign of how routine the dish was; chicken was often an older, tougher bird from the yard rather than a young broiler, and long stewing suited it. The optional salt pork is the American note, the same barrel pork that flavored beans, chowder and greens, standing in for the bacon or lardons a French cook would have reached for.

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