Breakfast, Dessert, Supper

Four hundred recipes from Auburn, New York, 1881 — the oldest cookbook here, and the only one written by a woman for herself.

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Whipped Cream (One pint cream whipped very)

One pint cream whipped very stiff, sugar and vanilla to taste. Whites of three eggs beaten to a froth, one tablespoonful brandy.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a raw-egg-white foam folded into sweetened whipped cream, served without any cooking step. The dairy is fine; the eggs are the problem.

A Little History

Cream whipped stiff and lightened with beaten whites belongs to a family of dishes that ran from the seventeenth-century English "snow" through the nineteenth-century crème fouettée of French pastry manuals, and it shows up in American household books as a component rather than a dessert in its own right — piled on charlottes and trifles, spooned over stewed fruit, or served in glasses with a wafer. Its placement in a plain breakfast-dessert-supper collection, with no yield and no serving suggestion, suggests — though this is inference — that the compiler assumed every reader already knew where whipped cream went. The brandy may be characteristic of the period too.

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