Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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BEEFSTEAK TOAST

Chop cold steak or tongue very fine, cook in a little water, put in cream or milk, thicken, season with butter, salt, and pepper, and pour it over slices of toast. Prepare boiled ham in the same way, adding the yolk of an egg.

BREAKFAST PUFFs may be made on baking day, by taking up a little dough, pulling out to thickness of doughnuts, cut two and one-half inches in length, drop in boiling lard, and fry like doughnuts; to be eaten with butter like biscuit.

SHELLED ALMONDS are more economical for use in cakes. One pound of unshelled almonds only makes six and one-half ounces or one coffe-cupful when shelled, while the unshelled are generally only double the price, and sometimes not that per pound.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a leftovers entry: cold cooked steak, tongue or ham turned into a creamed hash over toast. No quantities are given anywhere, so treat it as a method rather than a formula.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery handles fragments, and this entry is a fair sample of its logic: yesterday's steak, the end of a tongue, the last of a boiled ham, all rescued by cream sauce and a slice of toast. Creamed meat on toast was a fixture of American breakfast and supper tables through the nineteenth century and well into the twentieth, where it survived in institutional and military cooking under blunter names. Tongue appears here as an ordinary joint rather than a delicacy. The almond note has nothing to do with the dish and everything to do with the book's purpose: comparative price-per-pound arithmetic, printed for a reader expected to check the grocer's figures herself.

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