Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Boiled Okra

Put the young and tender pods of long, white okra in salted boil ing water in a porcelain or tin-lined sauce-pan (as iron discolors it), boil fifteen minutes, take off stems, and serve with butter, pepper, salt, and vinegar if preferred; or, after boiling, slice in rings, season with butter, dip in batter and fry; season and serve, or stew an equal quantity of tomatoes, and tender sliced okra, and one or two sliced green peppers; stew in porcelain kettle fifteen or twenty minutes, season with butter, pepper and salt, and serve. - Miss M. E. W., Selma, Ala.

For the Modern Kitchen

Three variations packed into one entry: plain boiled okra, a fried version, and a tomato stew. All of them hinge on not overcooking the pods.

A Little History

Okra came to the American South through the transatlantic slave trade from West Africa, where the plant and several of its names originate — "okra" is generally traced to Igbo ọ́kụ̀rụ̀, while "gumbo" comes from a Bantu word for the pod. By the 1870s it was thoroughly naturalized in Southern kitchens, and a Midwestern compilation like Buckeye Cookery carried an entry credited to Miss M. E. W. of Selma, Alabama. The three treatments she offers — boiled and buttered, sliced and fried, stewed with tomatoes and peppers — remain the core Southern okra repertoire a century and a half later. The insistence on porcelain or tin-lined pans is the recipe's own evidence that unlined iron was thought to spoil the vegetable.

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