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Cream Pudding
Stir together one pint cream, three ounces sugar, the yolks of three eggs, and a little grated nutmeg; add the well-beaten whites, stirring lightly, and pour into a buttered pie-plate on which has been sprinkled the crumbs of stale bread to about the thickness of an ordinary crust; sprinkle over the top a layer of bread-crumbs and bake.
A baked custard given a bread-crumb lining instead of pastry. The original assumes you know what a custard looks like when it is done and how hot your oven should be; both need saying.
- Oven temperatureNo temperature is given; the book was written for wood and coal ranges. Treat it as a slow to moderate oven, around 325F, and expect roughly 35 to 45 minutes. Custard baked much hotter tends to curdle and weep, so keep the heat gentle.
- Measure the sugarThree ounces is a weight, roughly 6 tablespoons or a scant half cup of granulated sugar. Weigh it if you can; the pudding is only lightly sweet by design.
- A pint of creamTwo cups. Period "cream" was skimmed by hand and varied a great deal in richness; much of it was thinner than today's heavy cream. Heavy cream will set very rich and dense, so half heavy cream and half whole milk is a safer approximation.
- The hinge: do not overbeat the whitesThe hinge: the whites -- The original says "well-beaten whites," folded in lightly. Folded whites give the pudding lift but also make it prone to souffle-style rise and collapse; if you want a steadier set, stop at soft peaks and fold only until just combined.
- The crumb crustStale bread crumbs, not dried packaged crumbs, buttered generously into the plate. Butter the pie-plate first so the crumbs adhere. They will never crisp like pastry; they soak up custard and form a soft, bready floor.
- Water bathNot mentioned in the original but worth using. Set the pie-plate in a larger pan with an inch of hot water to keep the edges from setting long before the centre does.
- DonenessPull it when the outer two inches are set and the middle still trembles as a single mass. Carryover heat finishes the centre. A knife inserted an inch from the edge should come out clean.
- YieldEnough for a pie-plate of about 9 inches, giving six modest servings. Good warm or cold; it will not slice cleanly like a pie.
Buckeye Cookery, compiled in Ohio in the 1870s from the contributions of local churchwomen, is full of dishes like this one: cream, eggs, sugar and nutmeg, assembled in the space of a paragraph. The bread-crumb lining stands in for pastry, which took time, flour and fat. Baked custards of this kind belong to a long English line of "puddings" set with egg rather than starch, and nutmeg was among their most common seasonings, grated fresh from the whole nut. Recipes of this era assume a cook who has milk and eggs to hand daily and no thermometer at all, which is why the instruction ends simply with "and bake."