Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Egg Plant (Peel and cut in slices)

Peel and cut in slices the purple kind, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and let drain on a tipped plate for three-quarters of an hour; make a light batter with one egg, flour and a little water, dip the slices into it and fry in butter or lard. Eggs and cracker may be used instead of the batter. Or, peel the egg-plant, boil till done, then pour off the water, mash fine, and pepper, butter and salt to taste, put in a shallow pudding-pan, and over the top place a thick layer of crushed cracker. Bake half an hour in a moderate oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two methods in one entry: batter-fried slices, and a boiled-and-mashed gratin. Both are sound; the salting step at the start is the part that decides how the fried version turns out.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery (which began as the Centennial Buckeye Cook Book, published in Marion, Ohio, in 1876, and was reissued in revised form as Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping in Minneapolis in 1877) belongs to the era when eggplant was still a slightly unfamiliar vegetable in American kitchens orm ggardeners near the eastern cities, but new enough in the Midwest that a compiler thought it worth saying which color to buy. The English name comes from the small white, egg-shaped varieties that reached northern Europe first; the plant itself is generally traced to South and Southeast Asia, and arrived in the Americas through both European and African channels. Frying salted slices in batter is among the most persistent American treatments, recorded in cookbooks from the early 1800s onward, and the second method here — boil, mash, top with cracker crumbs, bake — is a crumb-topped scalloped formula, a way of turning any soft vegetable into a dish that could hold in a warm oven until the family sat down.

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