Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Frosting Without Eggs

To one heaping tea-spoon Poland starch and just enough cold water to dissolve it, add a little hot water and cook in a basin set in hot water till very thick (or cook in a crock; either will prevent its burning or becoming lumpy). Should the sugar be lumpy roll it thoroughly, and stir in two and two-thirds cups while the starch is hot; flavor to taste, and spread on while the cake is a little warm. This should be made the day before using, as it takes longer to harden than when made with eggs, but it will never crumble in cutting. This is excellent. - Mrs. Ola Kellogg Wilcox.

For the Modern Kitchen

An eggless boiled-starch icing that sets firm without cracking, from a period when powdered sugar arrived lumpy and had to be crushed at home. It works, but the proportions assume you understand it is a paste, not a pourable glaze.

A Little History

Eggless frostings mattered in a household economy where eggs were seasonal and expensive -- hens laid little in winter, and a cake already claiming six or eight eggs left none for the icing. Starch icings filled the gap, and the recipe claims a practical advantage of its own: that it "will never crumble in cutting." Buckeye Cookery (1877, compiled from Ohio housekeepers' contributions) prints dozens of such signed recipes, and the closing verdict -- "This is excellent" -- reads as the voice of the contributor rather than the editors.

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