Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

HomeFood for the Sick › OAT-MEAL PIE-CRUST

OAT-MEAL PIE-CRUST

This is made exactly like the dough for crackers; it may be rolled a very little thinner. It bakes quickly, so that care must be taken not to scorch it in cooking the contents of the pie. It is not suited for an upper crust, but does admirably for pies that require but one crust. It is just the thing for those who do not think shortened pie-crusts wholesome, and it is good enough for any one. One can cat it with as much impunity as so much oat-meal mush and fruit sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a cross-reference rather than a standalone recipe: the dough is the book's oatmeal cracker dough, which is essentially oatmeal, salt and water worked into a stiff paste with no fat at all. That absence of shortening governs everything about how it behaves.

A Little History

This crust belongs squarely to the nineteenth-century American health-reform tradition, though the specific book, edition and chapter placement cannot be confirmed from the page itself. Health reformers, following Sylvester Graham and the water-cure and hygienic writers who came after him, held that fat baked into flour, especially lard, was slow to digest and unsuitable for invalids; "shortened pie-crust" was a standing example of the indigestible rich food a sickroom diet was meant to exclude. Oatmeal, by contrast, carried the double prestige of Scottish plainness and medical approval, and oatmeal gruel and mush were standard invalid fare on both sides of the Atlantic. The author's closing line, that it can be eaten "with as much impunity as so much oat-meal mush and fruit sauce," is making exactly that argument: this is not pastry pretending to be wholesome but mush in a portable shape. The faintly defensive "it is good enough for any one" suggests that sickroom cookery had a reputation to overcome even among the people writing it.

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