Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Pear Preserves

Pare, cut in halves, core and weigh (if hard, boil in water until tender, and use the water for the syrup), allow three-quarters pound sugar for each pound fruit, boil a few moments, skim, and cool; when luke-warm add pears, and boil gently until syrup has penetrated them and they look clear; some of the pieces will cook before the rest, and must be removed; when done, take out, boil down syrup a little and pour over them; a few cloves stuck here and there in the pears add a pleasant flavor. Put in small jars with glass or tin tops, and seal with putty. - Miss Florence Williams.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A plain nineteenth-century sugar-weight preserve: the pears are cooked in a syrup made at three parts sugar to four parts fruit, by weight, until they turn translucent. Everything hinges on the slow, gentle boil and on pulling pieces out as they finish.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery (published in Ohio in 1877 as Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping, a revised and enlarged version of the 1876 Centennial Buckeye Cook Book) reflects a moment when a hard-fleshed pear was a household staple rather than a dessert fruit. Varieties like the Kieffer, widely planted in the United States in the later nineteenth century, were gritty and nearly inedible raw but held their shape beautifully in syrup, and preserving was the main way a farm household turned a heavy autumn crop into something that lasted the winter. The three-quarters-pound-per-pound sugar ratio is doing preservation work, not just sweetening: at that concentration sugar ties up enough water to discourage spoilage, which is why so many recipes of the period specify weight rather than taste. The attribution to Miss Florence Williams is typical of the book, which was assembled from contributions by named local women — a community cookbook in the form that became the American standard.

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