Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Ripe Tomato Pickles

Pare ripe, sound tomatoes (do not scald), put in a jar; scald spices (tied in a bag) in vinegar, and pour while hot over them. This recipe is best for persons who prefer raw tomatoes.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a raw-pack pickle with no measured quantities, no vinegar strength and no heat processing of any kind. It cannot be brought into line with current preserving practice by adjusting a time or a temperature, so the notes below explain what fails rather than how to fix it.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery (1877) was compiled from Ohio housewives' contributions, and its pickle chapter reflects a late-summer glut of tomatoes with no refrigeration to fall back on. Vinegar was understood empirically as a preservative long before anyone could measure pH, and a great many household recipes of the period simply assumed that anything covered in vinegar would keep -- an assumption that worked more often with cucumbers and onions than with soft, near-neutral fruit. The closing line, that the recipe suits "persons who prefer raw tomatoes," suggests that not every reader took the raw tomato for granted; the tomato is often said to have spent decades under suspicion as a nightshade, though that story is more repeated tradition than documented practice, and tomatoes were in fact widely grown and eaten in America well before the 1870s.

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