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To Make Good Bread,
"Up in the morning early, just at the peep of day," in summer time, to prevent the sponge becoming sour by too long standing, and in winter to be getting materials warmed and in readiness for use. A large, seamless tin dish-pan with handles and a tight-fitting cover, kept for this purpose alone, is better than a wooden bowl for bread. It should be thoroughly washed and scalded every time it is used. Measure and sift the flour. It is convenient to keep two quart cups, one for dry and the other for liquid measuring. In winter always warm the flour (by placing it in a pan in a warm oven for a few minutes or by setting it over night where it will be kept at the same temperature as the sponge) and also the sponge. Put the flour in a bread pan, make a large well in the center, into which pour the sponge, adding two level tea-spoons of salt (this is the quantity for four loaves of bread); mix well, being careful not to get the dough too stiff'; turn out on the bread-board, rub the pan clean, and add the "rubbings" to the bread. Knead for from forty-five minutes to one hour, or until the dough ceases to stick to either the board or hands. Do not stop kneading until done. Any pause in the process injures the bread. The process of kneading is very important. Use just as little flour in kneading as will prevent sticking, and practice will enable one to make a little flour go a great way. Some good bread-makers knead with the palm of the hands until the dough is a flat cake, then fold once, repeating this operation until the dough is perfectly smooth and elastic; others close the hands and press hard and quickly into the dough with the fists, dipping them into the flour when the dough sticks; or, after kneading, chop with the chopping knife and then knead again; others still knead with a potato-masher, thinking it a great saving of strength. Another method, used by good bread-makers, is to raise the whole mass and drop or dash it with considerable force upon the mixing-board or table for several minutes. No exact directions can be given, but experience and practice will prove the best guides. After the bread is thoroughly kneaded, form into a round mass or large loaf, sprinkle the bread-pan well with flour, and, having placed the loaf in it, sprinkle flour lightly on the top (some grease the top with salted lard or butter instead of sprinkling with flour); cover closely, and set to rise in a warm temperature; let it rise to twice its original size this time, say from one to two hours, differing in time with the season of the year. Then knead down in the pan, cut into equal parts, place one at a time on the board, mold each into a smooth, oblong loaf, not too large, and put one after another into a well-greased baking-pan; grease the tops of the loaves with salted lard or butter, and set to rise. Or the loaves may be made by buttering the hands, and taking enough from the mass to form a loaf, molding it into shape in the hands, without using flour. This insures a nice, brown, tender crust. Loaves made in the French style, long and narrow, are about half crust, and more easily digested, the action of heat anticipating part of the digestive process. In molding, do not leave any lumps or loose flour adhering to the outside, but mold until the loaves are perfectly smooth. No particular directions can be given in regard to the time bread should stand after it is molded and placed in the pans, because here is the point where observation and discretion are so indispensable. In hot weather, when the yeast is very good and the bread very light, it must not stand over fifteen minutes before placing to bake. If it is cold weather, and the yeast is less active, or the bread not perfectly raised, it may sometimes stand an hour in the pans without injury. When it is risen so as to seam or crack, it is ready for the oven; if it stands after this it becomes sour, and even if it does not sour it loses its freshness and sweetness, and the bread becomes dry sooner after baking. Bread should undergo but two fermentations; the saccharine or sweet fermentation, and the vinous, when it smells something like foaming beer. The housewife who would have good, sweet bread, must never let it pass this change, because the third or acetous fermentation then takes place. This last can be remedied by adding soda in the proportion of one tea-spoon to each quart of wetting; or, which is the same thing, a tea-spoon to four quarts of flour; but the bread will be much less nutritious and healthful, and some of the best elements of the flour will be lost. Always add salt to all bread, biscuit, griddle-cakes, etc., but never salt sponge. A small quantity of white sugar is an improvement to all bread dough. Bread should always be mixed as soft as it can be handled, but in using the "new process" flour, made from spring wheat, the dough requires to be much harder than is necessary when using that made from winter wheat.
This is the second half of a two-stage bread: a sponge is set the night before, then flour, salt and kneading finish it here. Almost everything translates directly, with two exceptions worth flagging before you start.
- The kneading time is the outlierForty-five minutes to an hour by hand is far beyond what gluten needs. Eight to twelve minutes of vigorous hand kneading, or five to six in a stand mixer on medium-low, brings the dough to the same smooth, non-sticky, elastic state the text describes as the actual endpoint. Judge by feel, as instructed, not by the clock.
- Quantities and yieldTwo level teaspoons of salt are given for four loaves, but the recipe never states how much flour. The soda note ("one tea-spoon to each quart of wetting; or, which is the same thing, a tea-spoon to four quarts of flour") implies a batch on the order of four quarts of flour, though that is inference rather than instruction. Either way the salt is well below the modern norm of roughly 2 percent of flour weight.
- "Wetting"Nineteenth-century bread writing calls the total liquid the wetting. The soda correction given here is one teaspoon per quart of liquid, which the author equates to one teaspoon per four quarts of flour.
- No baking instructions are givenThis page ends at the oven door. Loaves of this size bake at 375-400F for 40 to 45 minutes; a finished loaf reads 200-210F in the center and sounds hollow when tapped on the base.
- "New process" flourSpring-wheat flour produced by the then-novel "new process" milling (high grinding and middlings purifiers; full roller milling came at the end of the 1870s). Its nearest modern descendant is bread flour, and the advice holds: it wants a stiffer dough than winter-wheat flour, which today corresponds roughly to all-purpose or pastry flour.
- VesselsThe seamless tin dish-pan with a tight lid is a large covered mixing bowl; a 6-quart plastic tub with a lid does the same job and lets you see the rise. Warming the flour in winter is still sound if your kitchen runs cold, and a low oven, briefly, is the easiest way.
- Salted lard on the loaf topsAny solid fat works. The point of greasing rather than flouring the surface is the tender crust noted in the text; flour on the outside bakes into a dusty skin.
- The three fermentationsSweet, vinous and acetous is period chemistry for what a modern baker calls under-, properly and over-fermented. The practical test offered here remains the best one: bake when the risen loaf begins to crack or seam at the surface.
- The soda rescueAdding soda to soured dough does neutralize the acid, as claimed, and the resulting bread does taste flat and slightly soapy. Better to accept a tangy loaf or shorten the rise next time.
Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping came out of Marysville, Ohio, in 1877, compiled by Estelle Woods Wilcox from contributions by local women, and it gives a long chapter to bread because bread was the one thing a household made daily and could most easily ruin. Two details help place it in its moment. The first is yeast: commercial compressed yeast was only beginning to reach American kitchens in the 1870s, so the overnight sponge and the anxious warnings about "less active" yeast reflect a cook relying on homemade hop or potato yeast of unpredictable strength. The second is the reference to "new process" flour from spring wheat, the product then transforming the Minnesota mills, which behaved differently enough in the hand that experienced bakers had to be told to mix stiffer. The talk of saccharine, vinous and acetous fermentations is borrowed from the popular chemistry of the period, when household manuals were eager to explain the kitchen in scientific terms; the vocabulary is dated, the observation behind it is not.