Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

From Aberdeen Crullas to Zwiebach — the vast Cassell's dictionary with a recipe for everything, each priced to the penny ('Probable cost, 2s.'), plus the whole science of the 1912 kitchen.

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Beef Tea from Fresh Meat

Take one pound of lean beef, entirely free from fat and sinew; mince it finely and mix it well with one pint of cold water. Put it on the hob, and let it remain heating very gradually for two hours. At the end of that time, add half a tea-spoonful of salt and boil gently for ten minutes. Remove the scum as it rises. This is beef tea pure and simple. When a change of flavour is required, it is a good plan to take one pound of meat composed of equal parts of veal, mutton, and beef, and proceed as above. Or, instead of using water, boil a carrot, a turnip, an onion, and a clove, in a pint of water, and when the flavour is extracted strain the liquid through a fine sieve; let it get quite cold, and pour it upon the minced meat, soaking and boiling it for the same time. Probable cost, 1s. per pint. Sufficient for one pint of beef tea.

For the Modern Kitchen

A sickroom staple rather than a soup, and the method is deliberately gentle: the point is to draw soluble protein and flavour out of the meat without setting it into hard grey shreds. Two things need translating for a modern range — the hob, and the imperial pint.

A Little History

Beef tea belongs to the branch of Victorian cookery known as invalid or sickroom cookery, which occupied whole chapters of household manuals. The reasoning of the period held that the nourishment of meat lay in its soluble "extractive matter" — an idea associated with the chemist Justus von Liebig, whose meat extract was sold commercially from the 1860s — so a clear brown liquid drawn from a pound of beef was thought to concentrate the strength of the whole joint. Modern nutrition takes a dimmer view: most of the protein stays behind in the exhausted meat fibres, and what dissolves is largely gelatin, salts and flavour compounds. The recipe survives less as a tonic than as a lesson in low-temperature extraction, and the instruction to skim, to keep the meat lean, and to cool the vegetable stock before use are all sound stock-making practice whatever the patient's condition.

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