Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

From Aberdeen Crullas to Zwiebach — the vast Cassell's dictionary with a recipe for everything, each priced to the penny ('Probable cost, 2s.'), plus the whole science of the 1912 kitchen.

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Colouring

Brown.-It is a very usual practice with common cooks to make the brown colouring as it is wanted by burning a little sugar in an iron spoon, and stirring it into the soup or sauce. By this means the flavour is almost sure to be spoilt. Much the better plan is to make a little browning, and keep it stored for use. It will keep for years. Proceed as follows:--Crush a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar to powder, put it into a saucepan with a table-spoonful of water, and stir it unceasingly over a gentle fire, with a wooden spoon, until it begins to acquire a little colour. Draw it back and bake it very slowly, still stirring it, until it is almost black, without being in the least burnt. It will take about half an hour. Pour a quart of water over it, let it boil for a few minutes until the sugar is quite dissolved, pour it out, and when cold strain it into a bottle, and store it for use. A table-spoonful of this browning will colour half a pint of liquid, and there will be no danger of an unpleasant taste being given to the sauce, etc. The addition of a little claret or mushroom ketchup will often impart as much colouring to sauces as is required. When it is wished to thicken the sauce as well as colour it, brown thickening should be used. Green.-Pound some young spinach or beet-leaves. Press out the juice and put it in a cup. Place this cup in a saucepan of boiling water and let it simmer gently, to take off the raw taste of the juice. Before using it, mix with it a little finely-sifted sugar. Red.-Two or three drops of cochineal will impart a beautiful red or pink colouring. It can be made at home, and will not cost nearly so much as if bought at the shops. White.-Use pounded almonds, arrowroot, or cream. Yellow.-For a clear yellow, dissolve orange or lemon jelly. For an opaque, pound the yolks of eggs, and mix it with the liquid; or, add a little saffron; or, soak the flowers of the crocus, which will not taste.

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