Cassell's New Dictionary of Cookery

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Olives, Preserving Of

Olives intended for preservation are gathered before they are ripe. The object of pickling them is to remove their bitterness and preserve them green by impregnating them with brine. To effect this various plans are adopted. The fruit being gathered is placed in a lye composed of one part of quicklime to six of ashes of young wood sifted. It is left for half a day, and is then put into fresh water, which is renewed every twenty-four hours. From this the fruit is transferred to a brine of common salt dissolved in water, to which some aromatic herbs have been added. Olives will in this manner keep good for twelve months.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is the traditional lye cure for green olives, described in a form that gives no strengths, no timings that can be checked, and no way to know when the caustic has been washed out. It cannot be followed safely.

A Little History

Green olives are inedibly bitter from oleuropein, and an alkali soak is the fastest way to break it down — the method is generally traced to Mediterranean and especially Spanish practice, and survives as the "Spanish-style" or Sevillano cure behind most commercial green table olives, where food-grade sodium hydroxide has long since replaced lime and wood ash. Before manufactured lye was cheap and standardised, household alkali commonly came from the two sources named here: burnt limestone and the ashes of the fire, which is why the same pairing turns up in soapmaking, laundry and hominy.

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